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Hi all,
I built my own, meters from fleabay switches and jiffy box from jaycar, top meter for start battery bottom meter for aux battery each in switches si they and the battery monitor can be switched off if needed and it fits perfectly next to the tranfer case selector on my D1, all the switches I will ever need...
Kevin, very nice job on the instrument,
Drivesafe thank you a most informative reply, what you say makes perfect sense and now feel a little silly thinking i had it covered, i guess it will be handy when im camped up but would it not show if the batt was not taking a charge or it it just showing input from alt, would it indicate if the alt was failing, sorry just trying to justify the $70 i paid for the unit
Cheers
Ken
As requested a photo of install, really good spot for D2 as the slope is perfect for viewing and front of tray just clips off, will need to trim left hand side of mounting tab as fouling on drink holder when trying to open, display could have been a little bit bigger but good otherwise, unit shows 48 deg after approx 6 klm but temp gauge shows normal temp , its got another 40 deg before normal op temp
Thanks Ken, one other benefit is if I turn it upside down at night it is at such an angle it projects a headup display on the windscreen, I didnt design it this way but it was cool when I first saw it...Quote:
Originally Posted by frostyblue
Kevin, looking at your setup maybe i could do similiar for the dual batt monitor, thanks again looks very professional
Cheers
Ken
Thanks to all who commented on price of 2nd batt tray, if you dont need a large batt fitted they are a very robust bit of kit, 3mm thick plate steel and only need to drill 1 hole to fit, as i only need a batt that will keep waeco running overnite and a couple of LED strip lights when cooking at nite suits me fine, $68 is a great price for what you get
Cheers
Ken
Certainly is, normally the price triples when it has those 3 letters on it (ARB )Quote:
Originally Posted by frostyblue
If you need big house battery capacity you can do what I did on the weekend and switch the cables for the starter and fuse box to the second battery.Quote:
Thanks to all who commented on price of 2nd batt tray, if you dont need a large batt fitted they are a very robust bit of kit, 3mm thick plate steel and only need to drill 1 hole to fit, as i only need a batt that will keep waeco running overnite and a couple of LED strip lights when cooking at nite suits me fine, $68 is a great price for what you get
This leaves you the original battery tray 340MM long which will fit a 120AH AGM.
I have managed to fit a 55AH Optima marine with 760CCA so plenty for the diesel. PITA though changing the battery mount system and adding a stainless heat shield.
I am really pleased with the outcome. Now to buy a 120AH AGM gulp.
Regards Philip A
You could have achieved the same or better result with one of the Traxide DBS controllers with a lot less hassle.
The traxide controllers share both batteries down to 12V/50% SOC before isolating the starter battery. This is more than enough to reliably start the Td5 on. You can then fit a large dual purpose battery in the standard location. I've got a Enex 100AH Starter/Deep Cycle installed in this position. You can then use 6 or 4 B&S wiring to the second battery without any issues. 8 b&s is more than adequate for the run to the back of the D2 if you are just using a fridge and some lighting.
A 100CA cranker run down to 50% SOC will give you roughly 50AH usable, while the 55AH optima can be run virtually flat without issues which would give you a total usable system capacity of around 100-105AH. A 120AH AGM will give you something like 95AH usable if you discharge to 20% SOC.
You'll find a lot of members swear by the Traxide controllers, and with good reason.
cheers
Paul
Paul, I feel more secure with an 80% main battery cutoff to 12.4 volts as supplied by the ABR 140R controller.
You have to remember that the main battery is also supplying the ancillaries and if you are camped for several days , I think an initial rate of 12volts is too low. Opening doors etc etc .
I have 8B&s to the second battery as the run is very short and it is unlikely to cause much voltage drop in a run of 50 centimeters.
I will run a 4B&S to the back of the car to reduce voltage drop , and as insurance if I want to run a big compressor in the back in future.( and I have the cable! LOL) I plan to fit a distributor block inside the corner of the D2 near the taillight and from there to external Hella plugs and over to a fridge Hella plug.
Horses for courses.
Regards Philip A