where to fit dual monitor

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

You have to remember that the main battery is also supplying the ancillaries and if you are camped for several days , I think an initial rate of 12volts is too low. Opening doors etc etc .

Horses for courses.
Regards Philip A

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Hi Philip and this is something I hear all the time, yet in the 20+ years I have been supplying these isolators, not once have I had a customer have a problem starting their vehicle.

Providing your battery is in good condition, you will have no problem starting you vehicle from as low as 11.58v or 20% SoC, and I know because over the years I have tested loads of vehicles, including my D1, my D2, my TD6 L322 RR, my D3, My TDV8 L322 RR and my D4 and all of them had no trouble starting from a cranking battery with a settled voltage of 11.5v.

Now, if your battery is not in good condition, it’s going to fail, but it doesn’t matter whether you have my isolator, some other brand of isolator or no dual battery system at all, if your battery is stuffed, it’s stuffed.

Philip, you have what you wanted but with the way my isolators work, your cranking battery would have be continually in a higher state of charge so you would actually have a safer cranking battery than you would with any other system.

Furthermore, as to your valid comment about leaving a door open. This could happen in any set up but with one of mine, it would actually take around twice as long for the light to flatten your cranking battery because my isolators work in both directions.

As you posted, horses for courses, and there are all sorts of dual battery systems but there is no other set up that offers anywhere near the number of advantages mine offer and because of the way my isolators work, both your auxiliary and your cranking batteries are going to have longer operating life spans, so my set ups work out costing far less that any other system and yet give you far more benefits.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Philip and this is something I hear all the time, yet in the 20+ years I have been supplying these isolators, not once have I had a customer have a problem starting their vehicle.

Providing your battery is in good condition, you will have no problem starting you vehicle from as low as 11.58v or 20% SoC, and I know because over the years I have tested loads of vehicles, including my D1, my D2, my TD6 L322 RR, my D3, My TDV8 L322 RR and my D4 and all of them had no trouble starting from a cranking battery with a settled voltage of 11.5v.

Now, if your battery is not in good condition, it’s going to fail, but it doesn’t matter whether you have my isolator, some other brand of isolator or no dual battery system at all, if your battery is stuffed, it’s stuffed.

Philip, you have what you wanted but with the way my isolators work, your cranking battery would have be continually in a higher state of charge so you would actually have a safer cranking battery than you would with any other system.

Furthermore, as to your valid comment about leaving a door open. This could happen in any set up but with one of mine, it would actually take around twice as long for the light to flatten your cranking battery because my isolators work in both directions.

As you posted, horses for courses, and there are all sorts of dual battery systems but there is no other set up that offers anywhere near the number of advantages mine offer and because of the way my isolators work, both your auxiliary and your cranking batteries are going to have longer operating life spans, so my set ups work out costing far less that any other system and yet give you far more benefits.

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Does your isolator detect main battery voltage and once it reaches a certain state of discharge it isolates it from the vehicle to avoid main battery being discharged beyond starting capacity

The interior lights on the D2 time out after 10 minutes, so it's difficult to flatten the battery by accidentally leaving the doors open.

The main battery is isolated at 12V.

Cheers
Paul

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Originally Posted by OffTrack

The interior lights on the D2 time out after 10 minutes, so it's difficult to flatten the battery by accidentally leaving the doors open.

The main battery is isolated at 12V.

Cheers
Paul

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Thats fine for a D2 or other such models but my D1 does not have that luxury, [smilebigeye]

Hi Kevin and as OffTrack posted.

Because all the batteries are connected together, it’s if/when the common voltage of all the batteries in the system gets down to 12.0v, then the isolator cuts out and the cranking battery is then protected against any further discharging from your accessories you have connected to your auxiliary/house battery.

This means, if you only have an auxiliary battery and a cranking battery in your DBS, the cut-out is when these two batteries reach 12.0v.

If you have a camper trailer or caravan connected and there is a house battery or two, then the cut-out will occur when all 3 or 4 batteries are down to 12.0v and this could take quite a few days to occur if you do leave a door open in your D1

Kevin, I understand where you and Philip are coming from but from feedback from customers, the biggest problem is over discharging of the auxiliary/house batteries.

This is becoming an ever more common problem and can work out a hell of a lot more expensive a problem than having a cranking battery go flat, for what ever reason.

I have had so much feedback on this problem that all my kit that come with auxiliary power socket fittings will soon be supplied with a low voltage cut-out module, the BG-25.

This is a 30 amp Battery Guard designed to stop the over discharging of the auxiliary/house batteries.

Again, over discharging of the auxiliary battery is proving to be a far greater potential problem than having a cranking battery go flat.

Hi,

I understand how it works let me be a little clearer, so the system disconects the aux battery or batteries from the main starting battery once it has dropped to 12v thats fine but that still leaves all factory equip like interior lights, central locking and power windows to off the main battery which will still drain it over time, this is still a potential for getting stuck, as for the aux batteries being over discharged being a bigger problem than the main battery being flat, try it in the middle of no where, with no help around, I for one would much rather a dead or unusable aux battery than a flat main battery when I needed it most

There is no system on the market that is a true isolator they all only isolate aux from main thats it, none detect main battery voltage and disconect it when its voltage is low, so I designed and built my own

Im not knocking any products there all great in there own way, but they all focus so much on the aux battery often neglecting the main going no further than just disconecting it from use after a certain voltage is reached, people often forget that they think ive got dual batteries and an isolator ill be fine, forgetting that the main battery is still in use, dont get me wrong most campers are aware of this and start there car daily to give it a boost but there are the folks that dont and they are the ones who often finish up in trouble

Just my thoughts

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Originally Posted by Kevin B

Thats fine for a D2 or other such models but my D1 does not have that luxury, [smilebigeye]

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Erm, this is a thread being discussed in the D2 forum, so it's not exactly surprising the D1 doesn't get a look in.

Hi again Kevin and it sounds like you operate in a comparatively rare situation where you would be off by yourself.

The vast majority of 4x4ers will never be in that type of situation, so auxiliary battery protection is just as important as cranking battery protection.

The reality is that most people want to get as much out of their system that can be achieved with out spending more money than is necessary and hopefully get a decent life out of their batteries, and this is where my system out performs everything else.

Even in your situation, of being off by yourself, having your cranking battery kept in a better state of charge at all times, which is what my systems achieve, would mean you are far less likely to get stranded in the first place.

Anyway, it’s horses for courses.

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Originally Posted by OffTrack

Erm, this is a thread being discussed in the D2 forum, so it's not exactly surprising the D1 doesn't get a look in.

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There the same car a D2just has more that can go wrong :p

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi again Kevin and it sounds like you operate in a comparatively rare situation where you would be off by yourself.

The vast majority of 4x4ers will never be in that type of situation, so auxiliary battery protection is just as important as cranking battery protection.

The reality is that most people want to get as much out of their system that can be achieved with out spending more money than is necessary and hopefully get a decent life out of their batteries, and this is where my system out performs everything else.

Even in your situation, of being off by yourself, having your cranking battery kept in a better state of charge at all times, which is what my systems achieve, would mean you are far less likely to get stranded in the first place.

Anyway, it’s horses for courses.

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Agreed... it all depends on what you like do and the extremes you like to go to,