A common issues is a blocked trans oil cooler, normally full of mud if you tend to frequent such areas/mud holes.
I made a wand similar to Tombie, which I carefully position in between the radiator and Intercooler to blow out said mud.
I have had the over temp auto trans light come up on the dash twice now. First time I had the trans oil strainer etc changed,then towing trailer as before light came on again [ extended winding climb ] stopped waited a couple of mins at idle light goes out all ok again. This has only happened since upgrade on ecu ???? I have a 02 TD5 with almost 200ks, it has had regular annual trans change . Have rang the landrover mechanic and will take the disco back for a check---ANY IDEAS ???![]()
A common issues is a blocked trans oil cooler, normally full of mud if you tend to frequent such areas/mud holes.
I made a wand similar to Tombie, which I carefully position in between the radiator and Intercooler to blow out said mud.
Was the ambient high at the time,say over 35 degrees?
Mine used to do it when temps were over 35degrees and it was working very hard in soft sand.Let it idle as per handbook info and light goes out pretty quickly,off you go again,as you also did.
MR auto here in Brisbane only use synthetic fluid in the auto.They flushed mine and filled it with synthetic fluid,but i didn't get to use it in the sand again in hot weather,so don't know if it helped.
Mine came on a while back and wouldn't go off. Even started the day on - with the tranny cold.
Turned out a wire had rubbed through and was earthing out. Taped up, moved, and no more light.
Any of you guy know how and where I can fit a 1/8 NPT threaded VDO oil temp sender to the transmission?
It's a bit off topic but I could help and provide advice of what my transmisson temps are like if I could get this thing fitted somewhere.
Happy Days.
I replied on another thread
Mad Man
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
If you find my thread on this issue, I found the easiest solution was to fit a second cooler in a location that was much easier to clean!
I have also changed to synthetic fluid, changed the filter and a few flushes which helped a bit I think.
However, one of the biggest changes was upgrading to an Ashcroft Torque Converter - it locks up much easier now which I find significantly reduces the heating issues...
Second try.but i didn't get to use it in the sand again in hot weather,so don't know if it helped.
If you are driving in sand it is worthwhile to use low ratio and I guess in a TD5 "M' to keep revs over 2800 RPM which is the Torque converter stall point.
The cooler on a TD5 is much bigger than say a 3.9 RRC, so LR have recognised that the torque converter slipping is a major source of transmission heat as 2800 RPM is a high stall point and much higher than a 3.9 .
I have never had the transmission light come on in my RRC, even towing a camper trailer on Stockton which is one very soft beach, because I followed these simple steps.
I expect the same in my TD5, but I guess time will tell.
Regards Philip A
Well a followup I removed all the plastic guards and covers,alot[it seems] of oil so I cleaned it all up and the only place I could see the oil coming from was the cam cut-out cover my new O-rings havn't arrived yet so used the plumbing tape fill in and the cap was hard to fit but I am sure it will stay sealed for some time yet!!! After the degrease, as the transmission cooler was chockers with gunk , I am hoping all will be OK!! thanks for all your replies also got onto the D2 boys club in England and had areply from the fellow who has the disco 2 repairs site ......seems we have quite a network![]()
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