Cas will stop the disco as described and the other faults will be as a result of the sudden loss. I have heard of faulty units. Did you buy genuine?
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Cas will stop the disco as described and the other faults will be as a result of the sudden loss. I have heard of faulty units. Did you buy genuine?
Interesting. I have a td5 I have been looking at for someone with exactly the same issue.
Driving along. coughed and stopped.
Just spins over and no firing.
When I first looked at it, the fuel pump sounded bad, stalled humming type noise, and there was a fuel related error of some sort on the nanocom.
We fitted a new pump, but it still spins over without firing. I am certain it is bled properly, but what ever I do, it just wont fire.
I have now also changed out the CKP just in case for a known good one, but it just spins over and doesn't even seem to try and fire.
Its a manual as well.
I have checked all the normal stuff, oil in harness, anything that may have become unplugged etc etc without any luck.
frustrating!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psimpson7
Yes frustrating indeed, iv got a new injector harness in my hands right now...i might try now... see how we go... just eliminating things now...
Have you checked the fuel supply downstream of the fuel filter unit?
The crankshaft speed & position sensor, [ CKP], according to RAVE.
Voltage generation from the CKP sensor is relative to engine speed. The values expected from a good CKP sensor are-
2 to 3 volts, engine cranking
Rising to 6 to 6.5 volts from 1000 rpm upwards.
The CKP sensor can fail by-
Sensor assy. loose
incorrect spacer fitted
sensor open circuit
sensor short circuit
incorrect fitting
water ingress.
In event of failure, one or more of the following may be observed ;
Engine cranks, but fails to start
MIL remains on at all times
engine misfires [ fitted incorrectly
engine runs rough or stalls [ incorrectly fitted]
The CKP has no backup strategy, & if it fails, engine will stop running, & fail to start
However, your problem may be;
Fuel pump relay or Main Relay. If one or the other fails, the symptoms are the same;
Engine will crank but not start
If the engine is running it will stop.
While I would doubt if this is your problem it is possible for the starter to get tired and feed a dirty signal into the system effecting the Crank Position Sensor.
The end result is crank and no start
A new harness hasn't done much but put some new codes up onto the nano
iv noticed the red light above the engine temp stays on?
Spacer on the crank sensor, looks exactly the same length as the original one?
manifold pressure circuit
ambient presure circuit
air inlet circuit
coolant temp
HIGH SPEED CRANK??? (New one)
inject 2 peak
inject 3 peak
injec 1 open circuit
injec 4 open circuit
inject 5 open ciruit
I had a TD5 failure to start recently following an engine change. Bled the fuel system a couple of times using the recommended sequence and it wouldn't start. Changed the crank angle sensor with a known good one - still wouldn't start. I then tried cranking it a few more times and it suddenly spluttered into action for 10 to 20 seconds then ran smoothly. I suspect that the fuel system wasn't fully bled. You say you fitted a new fuel pump - maybe try bleeding it using the 5 quick accellerator pedal press method a few more times.
X 2 Gazk . I still am thinking fuel.
Nick.
Had the car die a few times but it was following difficult starting.
In sequence had the fuel pump replaced (twice but only paid for one), fuel pump relay, and eventually injector seals and it was all good i.e. they worked from the fuel tank forward in fault finding.
2002 Td5 auto at about 120k with oil in loom which has never seemed to affect anything although have replaced the injector harness as a maintenance item.