Grease will attract all kinds of debris and dust, use a dry lube on the unsealed bearingsQuote:
Originally Posted by Mundy
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Grease will attract all kinds of debris and dust, use a dry lube on the unsealed bearingsQuote:
Originally Posted by Mundy
Some photos of the rear door table.
The door trim and worksurface are made from normal 6mm ply, painted with several coats of white gloss. Ideally I want to put laminate on at least the worksurface for better protection. The edge of the worksurface is edged with aluminium 'j' channel in an attempt to strenghten it. It's stronger with it, but not as good as it could have been :( I will probably fit another wire stay in the mddle of the other 2.
The back of the worksurfave is then covered in marine carpet. The 'stays' are 2mm PVC coated galv wire, with electrical ring crimps on each end.
It's held in the closed position by 2 tonneau elastic loops.
This is attached to the rear door by M5 bolts into rivinuts fixed to the original plastic trim fixing holes in the door.
In hindsight I wish I'd made the worksurface from thicker ply as the 6mm gives in the middle.
Yes, can you please do that. I'm going to be buying the slides for my fridge fairly soon and I'd appreciate making the comparison.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mundy
Did you offset the table so it's level when open?
I ask as the door sits open edge up when open.
You are correct, and no I didn't offset it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
The way I see it is it will be unlikley that I will be parked on level ground, I don't do much camping in car parks :angel:, plus the slope isn't that bad. The last 5 photos actual have the front of the Disco slighlty down hill as well.
BellQuote:
Originally Posted by bell1975
I have purchased both full extension slides and heavy duty single extension slides from Elraco distributors. You can access their website via either:
"www.elraco.com.au" or "www.hardware.net.au". From memory delivery charge was relatively inexpensive.
cheers
Mundy
Well it's been 12 months now, and it is still in one piece. Which is nice!
I ended up making a cargo barrier for the top from some 25x25x2 box section, 50x50 weld mesh, some 25x3 flat bar, 30x30 angle and several high tensile bolts.
Using the 3rd row seat grab handle holes I bolted a piece of flat bar with a M8 nut welded to it's back in place on both sides. Once in place several measurements were made and a hole cut in each side trim panel to allow a bolt through. This gave the top brace points.
The box section was then cut and welded to the right size & shape, then the 50x50 weld mesh welded into place. To attach the top brace a M10 nut was welded into the open end of the top of the frame.
A length of 30x30 angle was then bolted to the top of the storage box to give a bottom fixing point, with two M8 nuts welded into place to bolt the bottom of the barrier in.
Two pieces of flat bar were cut and bent to suit for the top braces.
Once the storage box is loaded into the rear I can then bolt the barrier into place.
It is only there to retain light objects, clothing/sleeping bags etc.
I mounted a fire extinguisher and first aid kit onto the barrier on the passenger side for ease of access. The fire extinguisher is fitted so that the center headrest is semi-blocking it plus it's in a vehicle bracket with an additional Velcro strap around it. The first aid kit is held in place with 2 Velcro straps.
Few more ..
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJMWAxzB7FU[/ame]
Fantastic set up.
Cheers Jerry
If you have SLS the table could be leveled by letting some air out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie