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Thread: ACE Problem, Technical help needed.

  1. #1
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    ACE Problem, Technical help needed.

    So my ACE has had the odd problem.

    First thing was one of the hoses to the front Actuator (ram) blew due a wearspot where it had rubbed. I removed the entire hose which run from the ACEControl Block under the vehicle about the “B” pillar to the Actuator/ram. I had Enzed make up a pieceof hydraulic hose and braise some fittings on the end of the fixed pipes toconnect the flexible hydraulic hose.

    Before I get the dirt in the system comments, I made very very sure to keepeverything clean and dirt free. Everything I red online and in RAV has warningsabout keeping dirt out of the system.

    Next thing the front ram/actuator started a slow leak. It’s been enough thatI have put about 200mls of oil in the reservoir over about the last 2 months.

    I am ordering a new actuator/ram as the first thing to attempt to fix mycurrent problem.

    My issue at the moment is just after I start the vehicle, it intermittentlyrocks to the left. There’s anywhere between 2 and 10 seconds between the bumpsrocking to the left.

    Once I drive off, if the first corner is a right hand bend (leaning vehicleto the left) the red ACE light comes on with beeping. If the first corner is tothe left (leaning to the right) the orange ACE light comes on and the vehiclefeels like the sway bars are locked. According to the literature, locking thebars is exactly what should happen when a fault is sensed. I pressume that is done by keeping both Control Valves closed.

    Nanocom says I have pressure fault. I'll have to reconnect the Nanocom to get the exact code.

    I know many people have replaced the pressure sensor however I think thisproblem is more related to one of the solenoids. When I use Nanocom to turn onthe Direction Control Valve (DCV) 1, the vehicle bumps to the left about every2 seconds (guessing). When I active DCV2, nothing moves and the orange ACEwarning light comes.

    I’m currently suspecting either I have air in the system from the leakingram/actuator or a buggered solenoid. Some **** wants $88 for a second handsolenoid on eBay but I can buy a complete S/H ACE Control block for $124delivered from the UK.

    My first move is going to be replace the leaking ram/actuator and bleed thesystem.

    I am currently open to suggestions.

    Happy Days.







  2. #2
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    I suspect the system needs to be bled. Does Nanocom have a function to do this?
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  3. #3
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    When was the last time you changed the filter?

    Check you gyros/movement sensors, if I remember one up in the roof round the interior light the other is on the transmission tunnel, (dont quote me on these locations)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I suspect the system needs to be bled. Does Nanocom have a function to do this?
    Yes Nanocom can do this. I'm thinking maybe just air from the leaking ram.

    The Castrol Z Max is about $80 so I think I'll wait until I have the ram before I do the bleeding and the filter.


    Thanks for the ideas.

  5. #5
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    When I say check the gyros I mean as in are they loose.
    Is it not ATF in the system?
    I know the filter is very fine and about $60.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by RR P38 View Post
    When I say check the gyros I mean as in are they loose.
    I haven't checked but as I can create the error without the vehicle moving and just activating DCV2. I think it's more likely the control block or air in the system than a loose gyro. I think it would be unlikely to move while the vehicle is stationary as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by RR P38 View Post
    Is it not ATF in the system?
    Yep, Castrol Transmax Z

    Quote Originally Posted by RR P38 View Post
    I know the filter is very fine and about $60.
    As it's a stainless steel filter, I'm hoping I will be able to wash it with diesel rather than buy a new one for $30 odd.

    Happy Days.

  7. #7
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    You shouldn't need any fluid to "bleed" the system.

    It's a internal process where fluid is shunted around the circuit and back into the return line.

    It should not be ATF in the system. There's a LR specific fluid for it, the same as the power steering system.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    You shouldn't need any fluid to "bleed" the system.

    It's a internal process where fluid is shunted around the circuit and back into the return line.
    Yep. I'm aware of that but since I ordered the actuator today and I have to disconnect the sway bars and stuff to do the bleeding I might as well wait for the ram to arrive and clean the filter at the same time. I have to work for the next 6 days so with a bit of luck it might arrive before my next days off.

    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    It should not be ATF in the system. There's a LR specific fluid for it, the same as the power steering system.
    After plenty of reading, I am happy to run Dex III oil. I am currently running Transmax Z.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ing-sound.html

    And

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ce-system.html

    Plus heaps more.

    Happy Days.

  9. #9
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    ACE problem

    Mr joel 0407
    one of your gyro's is under the floor on the drivers side inside the sill panel if you lay under the car you will see it,the other is up near the rear view mirror
    I have the Nanocom EVO and it has a bleed process in it without having to undo any of the hydraulics,they do warn you that the car will rock from side to side during the bleed process.
    hope this helps a little
    cheers
    Paul

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Modelsp View Post
    Mr joel 0407
    one of your gyro's is under the floor on the drivers side inside the sill panel if you lay under the car you will see it,the other is up near the rear view mirror
    I have the Nanocom EVO and it has a bleed process in it without having to undo any of the hydraulics,they do warn you that the car will rock from side to side during the bleed process.
    hope this helps a little
    cheers
    Paul

    Ahoy Paul,

    I know I dont need to disconnect the hyrdaulics for the bleed process however I do need to disconnet the sway bar links and extend the actuators. If I am going this far I might as well wait for the new actuator and change it at the same time.

    http://web.nanocom.it/download/LUCAS%20ACE.pdf

    Thanks for those that are offering advice.

    The down side of changing the actuator, cleaning the filter and bleeding the system all at the same time is if it fixes my problem I wont know what it was that fixed it.

    Actuator is ordered. I'll report back once it's changed.

    Happy Days.

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