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Thread: Where to buy Discrete Winch Tray

  1. #1
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    Where to buy Discrete Winch Tray

    Does anybody have suggestions where to buy these, or does anybody on the forum makes them?

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    I've made them before, costs less than $100- and about 2-3 hours for the tray. Another days work to mod the original plastic bar to my standards.

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    Thats what I made, the tray bolts to the chassis and sits behind the deformable area of the crush cans and "deformable structure" which is the steel backing of the original bar, which is what you can see on the far right. The original plastic I had removed and the plate just to the right of the RH eye bolt bolts to the front of the black plate which is bolted to the crush cans. I had just started making a tubular bat for it which is the tube at the top.



    This is the back of the bar, where you cut out the centre of the plate.

    Here's a front shot, you can see the tray it just about, well pretty much sits on the front protection bar, you need to remove the original tow hook. It make some more room for the side plates to fit in with all the extra stuff. The eye bolts are tapped into the webbing of the plate and shimmed to line them up with nuts fitted behind.



    Detail of cutout of plastic around the RH side



    Any questions give me a call, 0414 369 885. I still have the steel tubular bar that adds on or can be fitted on it's own. The tray is made from PFC (Parallel Flanged Channel) by memory. Following link to Edcon Steels catalogue, page 17 is the PFC, From memory it's 250mm, due to the width of the winch mounting feet. But the webbing sizes were more like the 230mm, and the flange/webbing dimensions will be fine in either case. You'll also need two pieces of 6mm plate for the side plates.
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    That's what the drilling of the PFC will look like, these 8 holes bolt the two side plates on to hang it from the chassis' Fold the plates, bolt (finger tight) to the PFC and sit on the bash bar underneath it. mark the location of the chassis holes and where you need to cut the side plates to shape/size. In addition there are the 4 holes for the winch mounting bolts.

    I cut the sides plates to this shape,for reasons I can't remember but it was around something.

    ______________
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    |___o__________\
    |_______________\
    |________________\ ____ Approximate positions of holes for Chassis,
    |_________________\ ____ Note holes are stepped and mirrored between
    |__________________| ____ each side.
    |____________o_____|
    |__________________|
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    |__________________| Fold line 90deg
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for that - that's really helpful - went to the steel place today to get prices so will definitely be building one of these.

    Out of interest, do you use the red anchor points to winch off when using a block? I assume the cradle wouldn't be strong enough to snatch off of those?

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    Helllooo Justin.

    I need one for the P38A. My winch has been sitting under the bench for 11 years.
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  6. #6
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    Swap you for a test book?

    I've got your number somewhere, give you a call and I'll knock one up?

    I do winch off the eyes with a sling to equalise the load. I use a shackle in each (6.5T). The cradle is fixed with 4 bolts just as any bar would be and the same 2 bolt points that a recovery point would be.

    I refuse to snatch at all so it's a moot point. But given that as above, recovery points are bolted to the same points it should be ok. The tray can't rotate with load, due to the bash bar below.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    Swap you for a test book?

    I've got your number somewhere, give you a call and I'll knock one up?

    I do winch off the eyes with a sling to equalise the load. I use a shackle in each (6.5T). The cradle is fixed with 4 bolts just as any bar would be and the same 2 bolt points that a recovery point would be.

    I refuse to snatch at all so it's a moot point. But given that as above, recovery points are bolted to the same points it should be ok. The tray can't rotate with load, due to the bash bar below.
    Forgive my terminology, but I was more thinking if the front 'flange'?! where the points are would bend forward.

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    03 Disco 2a, TD5, Olso blue, 7 seater, Auto, Chipped, EGR'd, 2"lift, SLS, Dual Batteries, Provent, TM-2 engine saver

  9. #9
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    That's the correct terminology. It's pretty thick and has a decent radius at the corner (inside). There's also not a lot of height and so very little lever length for any force to be applied on.

    Everything I make I get tested statically and measured for deformation under load. Now I'm no engineer so I defer to looking around at what others have done, what sort of materials and dimensions being used in similar application as well as the opinion of the people I have testing (certified rigging/lifting device testers). There's also the information available in relation to the loading capabilities of the materials from the suppliers/manufacturers.

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    How did you go with this? Any progress?

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