Thread: TD5 taking a while to start

650 cca is at the bottom of proper battery size for a D2 TD5. 750cca min is more to the point and so long as it fits the tray there is no such thing as a too big a battery! If it has install markers that only go to 2010 it is already 3yo! A Supercharge is also not a top notch brand, although that is sometimes not the case. Battery world will have a load tester, as should any reputable place that sell/stocks car batteries.
But I think you may have found at least part of your problem.
Cheers Scott

With all the talk of checking the battery, I did. I can see it's a
supercharge battery with a 650 CCA. Can't recall the model number. It's not
clear how old the battery is, but I can see it has the years 2008, 09, 10 to
mark when it was installed ( of course not marked!

So how fast does the starter turn? zing zing zing or IthinkIcan, IthinkIcan.

If the battery is falling below the 11.4 or whatever cutoff of the ECU, AFAIK the dash will light up like it's Christmas.
BUT all things being equal it appears the battery is quite old and probably doesn't hold a charge. Take the resting volts after a couple of hours stopped , then check it the next morning. It shouldn't be more than a couple of tenths of a volt lower. Ie say 12.7 down to 12.5.
I must say that mine still started first cylinder with a very old battery before I got new u beaut ones.

Regards Philip A

If your battery is in good nick it should be 12.7 volts a couple of hours after turn off, and still be 12.7 in the morning. If it is 12.5 volts it has lost around 15% of its charge.

http://www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/..._batteries.pdf

Originally Posted by schuy1

650 cca is at the bottom of proper battery size for a D2 TD5. 750cca min is more to the point and so long as it fits the tray there is no such thing as a too big a battery! If it has install markers that only go to 2010 it is already 3yo! A Supercharge is also not a top notch brand, although that is sometimes not the case. Battery world will have a load tester, as should any reputable place that sell/stocks car batteries.
But I think you may have found at least part of your problem.
Cheers Scott

Hope so Scott.

I'll take it to supercheap auto then, see what their testing unit says.. I'll make sure I get a suitable CCA battery too.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

So how fast does the starter turn? zing zing zing or IthinkIcan, IthinkIcan.

If the battery is falling below the 11.4 or whatever cutoff of the ECU, AFAIK the dash will light up like it's Christmas.
BUT all things being equal it appears the battery is quite old and probably doesn't hold a charge. Take the resting volts after a couple of hours stopped , then check it the next morning. It shouldn't be more than a couple of tenths of a volt lower. Ie say 12.7 down to 12.5.
I must say that mine still started first cylinder with a very old battery before I got new u beaut ones.

Regards Philip A

Hi Philip,

It actually turns over quiet well. I have a multimeter, but for the life of me, can't find the darn thing.

I'll take it to a shop and get the battery tested. I'm really hoping now this turns out to be the issue.

A quick update.

New battery in and starts fine. :-)

This slow starting has been going on a while I see.

OK, to recap, head was taken off and machined, injector harness replaced at the same time (along with an awful lot of other items). I have since replaced fuel pump and battery. Found the battery negative lead wasn't properly grounded, fixed that.

While poking about to work out what could be wrong, found oil at the red ECU plug, have cleaned that now twice.

Now after each time one of these things was done, starting improved. However it's continued to get worse, to the point that it's a long draining start, lots of foot pumping and when it finally starts lots of exhaust, clearly too much fuel.

So I finally moved the D2 from the front yard back to in front the shed. I took it for a bit of a run to make sure some charge goes back to the battery. When I got back home, I turned off the engine. Gave it a few seconds and then tried stating it again. NOTHING. So no residual pressure and a warm engine.

Looking through all the slow starting posts, I seem to be down to the following things:

Air bleed valve,
non return valve
Fuel pressure regulator,
injector seals and washers.

I'm thinking from a cost/complexity point of view - and a lack of a clue to diagnose the issue, I should go with replacing the parts in said order?

For some reason the thought of pulling the rocker cover off freaks me out a bit. Put it down to a lack of confidence having never done it before.

Originally Posted by plaven

For some reason the thought of pulling the rocker cover off freaks me out a bit. Put it down to a lack of confidence having never done it before.

Nothing hard or complicated doing this.