Thread: CDL install tips

A helpful post as well for others:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/678532-post1.html

Test it before you bolt the actuator in place, it's much easier to adjust the cable with the extra room if it doesn't engage after testing.

Also the rivots that hold the plate down, there is 13 or 14 of them, put one less back in, the one you leave out rubs on something, you'll see where when your putting them back in, fill the hole with some Silastic.

Oh and take your time

Baz.

What I would check out before installing the .50 diff lock lever (they are shown on UP's site but Del makes/sells them) is whether you really need to modify the cutout in the plate as extensively as shown in the tutorials.

The lever pivots side to side in the rectangular bracket that is welded to the pivot (you'll see what I mean) so the hole only needs to be wide enough to give clearance for the hi-low engagement. You may well be able to file the hole to fit without drilling out the rivets and removing, which would be a huge plus.

If you are able to do this, you should be able to follow the RAVE procedures for removing and fitting the lever from under the vehicle. This requires removing the front propshaft to improve access but I'd have to say it's preferable to drilling out the rivets and still having to fight to get things lined up.

I've attached the lever removal and adjustment procedure from the Topix version of RAVE as they aren't in the PDF version.

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by OffTrack

What I would check out before installing the .50 diff lock lever (they are shown on UP's site but Del makes/sells them) is whether you really need to modify the cutout in the plate as extensively as shown in the tutorials.

The lever pivots side to side in the rectangular bracket that is welded to the pivot (you'll see what I mean) so the hole only needs to be wide enough to give clearance for the hi-low engagement. You may well be able to file the hole to fit without drilling out the rivets and removing, which would be a huge plus.

If you are able to do this, you should be able to follow the RAVE procedures for removing and fitting the lever from under the vehicle. This requires removing the front propshaft to improve access but I'd have to say it's preferable to drilling out the rivets and still having to fight to get things lined up.

I've attached the lever removal and adjustment procedure from the Topix version of RAVE as they aren't in the PDF version.

cheers
Paul

You don't need to go any further to the left, but you need to on the right, only by 3mm to 5mm though, I did a test with the plate in place and I needed to go that 3mm to 5mm, I did go up and down more, I bascally squared it up, as you would have seen in my thread, probably not the neatest job, but hey it worked

Personally I think going via the centre consol is better, as your not crawling around on your back under the car, but I'm old so the comfort of sitting in the car won me over.

Baz.

Just doing a dig around and found the part for auto shifter mounting plate, with the d2a cdl sized shifter cutout. It's FHF000130 - apparently it's an "order in from the UK" item and would take about 10 days for a local seller to get but they are available and are around $45 inc gst.

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by Redback

Personally I think going via the centre consol is better, as your not crawling around on your back under the car, but I'm old so the comfort of sitting in the car won me over.

Baz.

I've done it twice on mine First with an Ashcroft clone, and then one of Del's levers. Drilling out the rivets isn't too bad, but after the second go the holes were getting pretty close to being oversized.

I had to replace the diff lock switch a couple of months ago, and found with the front prop shaft out of the way the access to that is really pretty good, and it's certainly no more frustrating that trying to hold the mounting plate in the correct position whilst simultaneously applying enough force to pop the rivet

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by OffTrack

I've done it twice on mine First with an Ashcroft clone, and then one of Del's levers. Drilling out the rivets isn't too bad, but after the second go the holes were getting pretty close to being oversized.

I had to replace the diff lock switch a couple of months ago, and found with the front prop shaft out of the way the access to that is really pretty good, and it's certainly no more frustrating that trying to hold the mounting plate in the correct position whilst simultaneously applying enough force to pop the rivet

cheers
Paul

I finally got hold of a D2A CDL lever to upgrade my 2001 D2, while I was up there I pulled the CDL switch and repaired it.

The guy I got the lever off said he did it from below and I did it this way also. I didn't even have to remove the front drive shaft. I now find out I did it the way RAVE says to.

I didn't think it was very difficult. I must have smaller hands because I don't have long arms..

Boy don't they collect crap under the console??? I vacuumed mine out before putting it all back together.

Found the little 2 wire plug and foam noise thing jammed under the auto shift unit.

The rear cowl on mine also had a screw in the wrong place so fixed that one while in there.

Found the cigarette lighter wire wrapped around the front mount and crushed so fixed that too.

Found previous owner had drilled through the rear heater ducts so fixed that with cable ties and a soldering iron.

Now to get time to test it...

where did you manage to get a lever form?
i have been hunting around perth and havent found anything.

had one guy offer me one of those ebay cable lever (mounted to the tunnel) jobbies for just under 800 :/