I know there is some expense but at the stage your at I bit the bullet and replaced the engine harness as well as the injector harness and it was the best thing I did as it resolved all the problems and left the everything smooth as silk.:)
Nick
I know there is some expense but at the stage your at I bit the bullet and replaced the engine harness as well as the injector harness and it was the best thing I did as it resolved all the problems and left the everything smooth as silk.:)
Nick
Having just seen the OPs other thread about the battery ground not being connected to the body, I'd hazard a guess that rectifying that issue will help probably with these problems.
Here's hoping.Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
So this morning I went to the auto electrician and had I shot lead made up and connected to the negative lead.
Starting was better and idle is the smoothest its been.
Hopefully this is the end of this saga. :-)
Heres hoping :) Funny darn cattle these Discos:D If the voltage due to faulty earthing points or battery are not correct it seems to play up with stuff that appears not even remotely connected;).Quote:
Originally Posted by plaven
Cheers Scott
In this case however the earth point for the ECU is on the same panel that the battery earth cable bolts to. If you are relying on accurate measurement of voltages from sensors you don't want an earth that wanders depending on how much load is on the system.Quote:
Originally Posted by schuy1
Just checked this out for the sake of science. With the battery cable bolted to the body the resistance is 2 ohms. With the cable unbolted the resistance between the same two points is 347 ohms. That is going to seriously limit the current available to the ECU and cause the supply voltage to droop under load which will effect sensor readings just to make matters worse.
The only mystery is why anyone would think it was a good idea to unbolt a ground connection to start with.
Cheers
Paul
Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTrack
It wasn't unbolted, it was broken/worn.
I'd say my ham fisted approach to replacing the battery was enough to break the bit of copper that was originally connected to the earth point.
Keep in mind I'm completely clueless with this stuff... completely!!! And it was only through observation that I noticed it was broken, not because I knew it should be connected.
I knew enough of that from reading up on circuits for wiring up lights (which I still haven't done, it's a bit of a black art for me still), it's what got me thinking about the whole system and prompted me to finally ask the question.
Worse I'd seen this over the weekend and taken the photo back then too, but never got around to asking the question.
I have to say I'm happy with the fix though - sure $10 and 10 minutes at hte auto electrician this morning before work, but heck, soldered, heat shrunk and they have all the stuff I don't!
And at the end of the day I have walked away with a much better understanding of "things".
So thanks to you all for your advice. It's not lost on me. Probably saved me some money too...
Ah, that's ok then. I was thinking some battery place had hashed the install. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by plaven
The original battery earth cables are pretty reasonably priced - around $30 when I got one last year to replace a badly frayed original.
Cheers
Paul
Ah Paul, you beat me to the testing bit. I was going to do it when mine gets back from the Auto gurus. I was not referring to that connection in particular when I noted voltage and earthing faults can cause havoc with systems. All grist to the landrover road to enlightenment! :D
Cheers Scott