From what I can see of the specs on bolt Torque.
450nm is that right?
This is seriously tight.
Changed both fan support bearings on our TD5's. I had no problems with Double row angular contact 3206 European &5206 Japanese bearings I used. both were less than half the price of the uber expensive SKF and both are still going strong several years on.
From what I can see of the specs on bolt Torque.
450nm is that right?
This is seriously tight.
My manual shows it at 460nm and yes it is very tight.
You may find this thread helpful....http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...ml#post1838551
Wow. I was priced $128 (Usually $180) from SKF for a 3206A-2RS1TN9/MT33 and they didn't have the 3206A-2RS1TN9/C3MT33. I ended up going with a KSM 5206-2RS as the bearing place advised the grease was rated to 120 degrees and breaking down at 180 degrees which I think has to be better than the MT33 grease. The KSM 5206-2RS was only $55 and it's made in Japan the same as the SKF. I'm told it's not rubbish but I'd not bearing expert.
The difference if the C3 and the non C3 if the tolerances. C2 is standard, C3 has greater tolerances to allow for more heat expansion.
If I had more time I would have ordered it from Boca Bearings in the states as I have bought a few bearings from them in the past and they have a pretty good reputation for the quality in there smaller micro bearings. Problem is I need the Disco going again ASAP so it's the local bearing suppliers for today.
Happy Days
I've had a KSM 5206-2RS fitted for about a year without issue. Freeze the shaft for a few hours, and heat the bearing in a LOW oven, they'll drop together. Then stick bearing and shaft assembly in freezer overnight. Heat housing with heatgun, run from freezer to car with bearing on a plate, it'll slide straight in.
Don't forget that there's a circlip holding it in when you're pulling the old one.... don't ask
Regards, Will
Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12
What do you guys think about greasing the housing before fitting the bearing. I had the bearing sitting in dry ice, in the freezer and heated the timing cover with my wife's hair dryer. It only went half way and then got stick. I panicked and tapped it around with a hammer to get it out again. It's back in the freezer and ready to go again but I think some grease in the housing would make it slip in easier.
The reason I'm reluctant to grease it is if a bearing seizes, its never good for it to spin in the housing so I generally would never do it but I'm looking for others opinions.
Happy Days.
Joel, ditch the hair dryer and use a blowtorch (sensibly), and no grease. There is an excellent tutorial listed hereabouts on www.discovery2.uk
Haven't changed my bearing yet, the squeel has gone after spraying belt (both sides) with belt grip. I will do it anyway.
I talked to my cousin who is a qualified fitter and tuner and he believed the fit was tight enough that lubing it would cause a problem. What might be a problem however was getting a C2 bearing and not the C3. It doesn't make much sense to me as they should all be 62mm in diameter but C3 is a bit smaller to allow for thermal expansion. Why not have a 61.99mm instead of a 62mm, C3 spec. Then I would of cause gone "no that's too big, I need a smaller one"
Any way his advise was as I had bought the C2 spec and not the C3 spec it would be a very small amount larger than a C3. So that might be why it was so tight to get in.
I got it in in the end. It went past half way with freezing it with dry ice and putting it in the freezer but the last bit took a good hour of small taps with a small hammer. I did manage tapping away for that long without hitting the radiator so I'm happy but it was a bloody long time. In the end I was trying the cir clip every 2 minutes or so.
Happy Days.
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