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Thread: High engine temp V8

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Milperra NSW
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    Well I suspected the cooling system was not so good when the auxiliary fan was running all the time with the A/C off, the temp gauge was still in the normal range but I know that's not a real indication.
    So I had the radiator, thermostat and viscus fan all replaced, but the auxiliary fan still came on. So I assumed it had logged a fault and was keeping it on until it was cleared.
    Today I received my Nanocom and went out to have play. There was no faults logged and the reason for the fan coming on was the temp was exceeding 100c. Idle in the driveway and it goes up to 105c, then when you rev it to 2000rpm it drops to 99c. Drive it and it goes up to 104c.
    This is really worrying me now as I'm going to tow a caravan at Christmas time.

    About the only thing I can think of is the water pump. Do these give much trouble?

    Any other ideas on what it might me?

    Craig

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Does it go straight up to 100 when you start it from cold? How long does it take? .might be temp sensor.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Once you start it, it warms up to at a steady pace and keeps going till it hits 100-105c and hovers around there. I've done some more reading since and I'm wondering if it's the themostat that my mechanic replaced is the cause of it.

  4. #4
    Road Stone Guest
    Hi,

    All sounds a bit odd.

    I'd check if the system has been bled properly and as you state look at the thermostat.

    Does your new viscous fan work as it should?

    Cheers, Jerry

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Milperra NSW
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    Yes, viscus fan is working but what seem to happen is say I'm stationary, temp rises to 105c at idle (A/C on or off doesn't seem to make a difference) then I'll bring the rpm up to 2000, you can here the fan roar the temp drops to 102c fairly quickly and the viscus fan disengages. If i keep it revving it drops a little further to 99c. it If I drive it around the block it hovers around 102-105c.

    I'm wondering if the maybe it's the thermostat opening too late to let the water flow to the radiator for cooling.....

    Craig

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    do water pumps fail internally?
    buy some water wetter anyway, it can only help--
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Milperra NSW
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    Okay, tried something different. I took it for a run down the freeway 90-110kph. In top gear it sat on 104-105c. Then I dropped it back to 3rd gear, so same speed higher rpm. Temp went to 102c. Tried it with A/C on and off with no real difference.

    Then just gently driving around the suburbs 105-107c. Then took it down to a industrial area and gave it a thrashing. It dropped to 100c.
    It seems the harder I drive it the cooler it gets!

    I'm now guessing it must have something to do with the speed of the coolant flow....

    Craig

  8. #8
    Road Stone Guest
    So could it be the water pump?

    Just as a comparison, my temps hover around 86/87c when driving normally with A/C on. This rises quite quickly when slowed by traffic to stop start driving, the highest being 92/93.

    Up to 95 when in a car park. All this at ambient of 30+C high humidity. My thermo opens at 96, not sure if that is right.

    I, for something to do tested to see how good the water pump was and when cold started it up and undid the bleed screw. needless to say coolant shot up in the air. so took the assumption all was ok

    I'd still check there is no air in the system first.

    Cheers Jerry

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    I've had a chat with my LR mech and he is not saying much till he runs a few tests first next week. So I'll wait and see....

    Craig

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Well after a double check of things it turns out that it's normal. Spoke to a couple of LR specialists and thats how they are from factory, 100-105c is acceptable...... eek!

    It's to do with efficiently and emissions. He said the damage happens when there has been a coolant loss and air enters the system then it boils. The best thing you can do is fit a low coolant alarm. Well I'm one step ahead there.

    I know what you guys are thinking and I'm still kind of feeling the same.

    Craig

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