2000 D2 V8 Recommended Oil?

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Originally Posted by Discotrip

Thanks, I'll have a look and see what's available at Supercheap. I've gone ahead and ordered an oil, air and transmission filter so may as well do a quick service. Is there a recommended transmission fluid? It's been a whole since I've had an auto but I imagine there are only one or two types.

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Castrol ATF Dex III or equivalent seems to be the go for ZF boxes of that era. Got some from SCheap last week.$34.75 for 4L. Rigging up a cordless drill powered rotary pump to try and flush the whole thing. I doubt it's been changed in 140K km..

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Originally Posted by Hoges

Rigging up a cordless drill powered rotary pump to try and flush the whole thing. I doubt it's been changed in 140K km..

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That should be interesting. I read a post about someone disconnecting the pipe to the cooler and running the engine while adding more fluid to flush it all out.

Do we have to worry about the transfer gear fluid as well? I need to see exactly where, but is that connected or a whole other service?

I use a nylon 15-40 In the orange bottle, owned the car 2 years I think and never had issues

Planning to drain the ATM, disconnect the inlet to the oil cooler and blow remaining oil in the cooler back into the pan with a gentle push from an air compressor.

Then fill the pan with clean oil, start the engine for a couple of minutes only and pump out old oil remaining in torque converter etc into a bucket while using drill pump to replenish until am sure the new oil is coming through into bucket. Stop engine and drain pan again then remove pan, clean it and replace filter, replace pan and refill. Reconnect oil cooler, start engine and keep refilling until begins to drip as per RAVE.

Apparently one needs to keep filling and then close up filler hole while engine is running. If you stop the engine a lot of oil will flow back and you lose it through the filler hole... then the levels are all wrong... Also the fluid has to be between 20 and 40 deg C, otherwise it expands significantly and the transmission is sensitive to correct oil levels...

Changing the filter last is because the filter is at its most efficient when its partly clogged:eek:.

Well that's the theory anyway!

WRT the TF case, just drain it for 30 mins or so when it's at ambient temp. Refill until it begins to dribble from the filler hole. all done!

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Originally Posted by Hoges

Planning to drain the ATM, disconnect the inlet to the oil cooler and blow remaining oil in the cooler back into the pan with a gentle push from an air compressor.

Then fill the pan with clean oil, start the engine for a couple of minutes only and pump out old oil remaining in torque converter etc into a bucket while using drill pump to replenish until am sure the new oil is coming through into bucket. Stop engine and drain pan again then remove pan, clean it and replace filter, replace pan and refill. Reconnect oil cooler, start engine and keep refilling until begins to drip as per RAVE.

Apparently one needs to keep filling and then close up filler hole while engine is running. If you stop the engine a lot of oil will flow back and you lose it through the filler hole... then the levels are all wrong... Also the fluid has to be between 20 and 40 deg C, otherwise it expands significantly and the transmission is sensitive to correct oil levels...

Changing the filter last is because the filter is at its most efficient when its partly clogged:eek:.

Well that's the theory anyway!

WRT the TF case, just drain it for 30 mins or so when it's at ambient temp. Refill until it begins to dribble from the filler hole. all done!

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It's posts like these that make me doubt mechanics even more, they'd never be as thorough! Good luck with that and thanks for the tips.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoges

Planning to drain the ATM, disconnect the inlet to the oil cooler and blow remaining oil in the cooler back into the pan with a gentle push from an air compressor.

Then fill the pan with clean oil, start the engine for a couple of minutes only and pump out old oil remaining in torque converter etc into a bucket while using drill pump to replenish until am sure the new oil is coming through into bucket. Stop engine and drain pan again then remove pan, clean it and replace filter, replace pan and refill. Reconnect oil cooler, start engine and keep refilling until begins to drip as per RAVE.

Apparently one needs to keep filling and then close up filler hole while engine is running. If you stop the engine a lot of oil will flow back and you lose it through the filler hole... then the levels are all wrong... Also the fluid has to be between 20 and 40 deg C, otherwise it expands significantly and the transmission is sensitive to correct oil levels...

Changing the filter last is because the filter is at its most efficient when its partly clogged:eek:.

Well that's the theory anyway!

WRT the TF case, just drain it for 30 mins or so when it's at ambient temp. Refill until it begins to dribble from the filler hole. all done!

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Just thought I'd mention, The vehicle must be on level ground, if on slopes it will not get correct filling level.

And another train of thought has the front of the vehicle up on ramps so as to be able to fill the auto more, compensate for temp related levels variations and also some regard the level/ filler hole as too low.

https://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&s..._4WyyiM3f4-1Kw

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Originally Posted by Hoges

They make good stuff...not sure that HPR10 is the best choice however... it's full synthetic. The flat tappet issue still remains. Their mineral -based Everyday 20-50 with "full zinc" is probably a better bet. Indeed am going to change from Magnatec 10-40 ...I hadn't realised Castrol had changed that formulation from mineral to a semi-synthetic.:eek:

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So is this the general consensus? Magnatec 10w40 now no good? I have been using it for the six years I have owned my D2. Castrol still recommends this oil for the D2. Surely they are aware of all the issues, it is their business after all.

I swear by Penrite but thats not to say there are not other good oils. I use Penrite HPR 10 - 10w-50 Full Synthetic with full zinc. My 4.0 did 265 000 and apart from head gasket issues the inside of the engine is like new, running Penrite for most of its life.

Cheers