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Thread: no power for about 10 sec after starting

  1. #1
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    no power for about 10 sec after starting

    Hello Everyone

    First of all, let me apologize about my english, but I am hungarian and unfortunatelly I am not perfect in it yet.
    I have red several technical discussions on this forum and found them interesting and usefull. This is why I have registered as well.

    I own my disco for about 1 year and so far I really satisfied with it. I have had only small issues, some oil leak, thermostat, like that.
    But I have something interesting for which even the local specialists do not have idea.
    When I start my engine (2002 Td5) it seems fine (easy start, stable idle) but when I put it to D (automatic) and start to go it has no power for about 10sec. After it is OK and never comes back again while I am driving. If I stop the engine and start again immediatelly the same happenes.
    Any idea?
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Hi berg450 - welcome to the forum.

    When you say it has no power after going into drive, do you mean that drive is getting to the wheels, but the engine has no power to drive it forward? If this is the case, does the engine hesitate or blow any smoke when doing this, or it just won't rev?

    After starting it, does it rev freely in park, before putting it in gear?

    Just trying to clarify the issue.

    Cheers - Gav.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #3
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    Hi thanks for the answer!
    Yes the car moves but slowly (10-20km/h) and does not rev up. No smoke, but when it "wakes up" black smoke comes but only for short time. Then it is fine.
    When I park it seems to rev up normally but I am not sure how much. I will try.

  4. #4
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    I disconnected my MAF the other day and purposely plugged in a faulty one. Had the exact issue you're describing.

    So I would say its you're MAF.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by catch-22 View Post
    I disconnected my MAF the other day and purposely plugged in a faulty one. Had the exact issue you're describing.

    So I would say its you're MAF.
    The MAF is the sensor directly after the air filter box. Try disconnecting it -ecu will use default values. If problem isn't there-voila maf either needs a clean or replacement. Use maf aerosol cleaner.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsperka View Post
    The MAF is the sensor directly after the air filter box. Try disconnecting it -ecu will use default values. If problem isn't there-voila maf either needs a clean or replacement. Use maf aerosol cleaner.
    umm....yes MAF cleaner = contact cleaner

    Berg450 - good to see you're riding the right brand bike...

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the idea, I have tried it. Disconnected the MAF and started the engine. When parking it revs up freely, but when I drive it stops around 2k rpm for about 5 sec (i double checked) even I push full. After it start accelerating like something "opened up". And it happenes even the engine is cold or hot. I tried this morning about 5 times.
    Any idea?

  8. #8
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    no power

    Could be oil in the injector harness.Remove acoustic cover and have a look at the plug at the top front of the engine.If it is oily clean the contacts with contact cleaner and see how it goes.
    If this is the case,the best long term solution is to replace the harness as you will have ongoing problems. Not terribly expensive.This is a well known issue with TD5s.

    Trev.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsperka View Post
    The MAF is the sensor directly after the air filter box. Try disconnecting it -ecu will use default values. If problem isn't there-voila maf either needs a clean or replacement. Use maf aerosol cleaner.
    The ECU doesn't use default values if you unplug the MAF. It substitutes an alternative estimation of airflow calculated using MAP/IAT and AAP (plus AAT in EU3).

    The airflow figures from maf/rpm should be close to the figures calculated from map/IAT, aap and AAT if both sets of sensors are in good condition and you haven't ****ed things up by fitting a boost box. That is reason unplugging the MAF works as a check.

    Cheers
    Paul

  10. #10
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    A simple MAF test

    If you have a multimeter
    try this test using either a sharp probe or a pin
    Test Negative terminal on pin 1 (pink/black wire),Positive on pin 2(brown/orange wire) ask somebody to rev up the engine and if the sensor works well you must get voltage between close to 1-2V at idle and must increase together with the revs up to max 4.9V
    If no voltage you could have a bad earth path to ECM

    Cheap easy test similar tests can be done to MAP/IAT
    and AAP/AAT sensors

    Pete

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