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Thread: no power for about 10 sec after starting

  1. #21
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    I would look at the turbo modulator and or the turbo modulator hose and see if it has popped off at the intercooler pipe (outlet from turbo, half way along look for a small rubber pipe) ensure all three hoses are connected and not split.

    If the auto has done that round 100K Id suggest a service on it, but generally the auto will show other signs such as the hesitant shift etc.

    Regards
    Daz

  2. #22
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    turbo modulator pipes have checked. Seems to be ok. I have also checked the injetor harness, there was has some oil on it so I cleaned it. Also I have found some oil on the ECU connector (red) also cleaned. No change.
    I will check more deeply the MAF...

  3. #23
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    The lazy TD5 issue can be caused by numerous failures, you can often have the same symptoms with the cause being different. Proof of that is just read through this forum at all the good replies from member and what they found caused a lazy TD5.

    Typically Id expect some other symptom there, as in does it struggle to rev once it gets towards that 3000rpm? I and others could and no doubt will throw other ideas at you, but without a good diagnostic tool or a good knowledge of how circuits/sensors work there is a degree of guess work. I do so hate guess work....

    Regards
    Daz

  4. #24
    DiscoMick Guest
    There is an oil pump in the transmission and an oil filter. If the filter blocks up it can reduce the flow of oil inside the gearbox. That can cause the oil pump to struggle and so the oil does not get pumped around. Eventually this can cause the gearbox to fail. Mine was recently overhauled at a cost of $3700. I suggest a good transmission service might be worthwhile. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, at least you will know the gearbox is in good shape for the future. Just a thought.

    Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

  5. #25
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    I have heard a few days ago that in case of no input from MAF the ECU starts giving default signal after 12 sec, I have checked again the symptom. After starting the engine and put to D (start driving), I have measured the time and exactly after 12 sec the engine started to rev up. I have checked it 3-4 time and the result was the same.
    So first I will check the MAF and replace if needed. I will let you know the result.

  6. #26
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    today I have tried to clean the MAF (with special cleaner) and also to do some checks before I replace it and faced with an other issue. When I started the engine it started nice but after a few secs the rpm dropped down and the engine stopped. I could not start again! Could it be because the MAF (false info and the engine overflooded) or other issue?
    If I use cold engine starter, it starts and after it works as before.

  7. #27
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    Disconnect the Maf and see if that makes a difference..

  8. #28
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    x 2 Aaron40

    This feels more like a fuel issue, as in air into the system or the fuel pump is failing.
    To test this theory, put it into purge mode, ignition on, press throttle pedal 5 times, MIL (engine light) will flash, wait until light has stopped flashing, start vehicle, see how it runs.

    If all is good, Id suggest changing fuel filter and dont over tighten the filter or the sensor on the bottom (if it still has one). To test pump, often the pressure comes up as all ok, but its the delivery they can have problems with, doing the ol drive up to 3000rpm if its the pump it will struggle to 3000rpm then wont push beyond this.

    But you do seem to be having the opposite issue, as in once the air has purged out all is ok...

    Regards
    Daz

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    x 2 Aaron40

    This feels more like a fuel issue, as in air into the system or the fuel pump is failing.
    To test this theory, put it into purge mode, ignition on, press throttle pedal 5 times, MIL (engine light) will flash, wait until light has stopped flashing, start vehicle, see how it runs.

    If all is good, Id suggest changing fuel filter and dont over tighten the filter or the sensor on the bottom (if it still has one). To test pump, often the pressure comes up as all ok, but its the delivery they can have problems with, doing the ol drive up to 3000rpm if its the pump it will struggle to 3000rpm then wont push beyond this.

    But you do seem to be having the opposite issue, as in once the air has purged out all is ok...

    Regards
    Daz
    Hello Daz
    I have tried it. Run the sequence as you described (took a few minutes until the light stopped flashing) but could not start the engine. I took off the air pipe after the MAF and started the engine with cold start spray. Started immediatelly, stable idle, no issue. I took the car for a ride, run fine (except the issue that it still has no power for about 12 sec even after I have cleaned the MAF) and when I restarted the engine it worked without problem. I will check again starting when it is cold.

  10. #30
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    Hello

    Today the MAF changed for a new one. Seems that the problem has solved. Starts and runs fine (power already available right after start).
    Just one interesting thing...
    I have talked to the previous owner and he has also tried to change the MAf (as he also had this issue). They checked the MAF by using special equipment which shows the flow readings and found it wrong. Than they put on a USED one which, according to the checking device, seemed to be working well. But the issue (no power after start) did not solve. After they gave up.
    Thanks again for all the ideas and advices!
    Laszlo

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