Thread: Full Tranny flush and extra cooling.

yep change the oil about 4 times.

Im currently working up an adaptor that goes into the drain plug so I can bottom fill the tranny and use an adaptor to just let it overflow to waste.

If someone in QLD (brissy area wants a D2 Tranny flush doing, drop me a line please, I dont have an auto in house to setup with.

Been thinking about the idea of using the pump in the tranny. Didn't think about using the drain plug I like it.

Bummer just been to Brizzy 2 weeks ago.

I was thinking about using the return from the oil cooler to go to waste.

Which hose is the return?

dont split the lines to do it...

just drain and refill
run the engine for 5 minutes the first time
take it for a short drive the second (the oil should be looking much better by now)
take it for a short drive the third

then drop the pan, change the filter and refill as per the manual for the 4th time, should take you about 20l of oil

TRUST ME.....

even "screwing" some over size hose into the drain on the end of a small electric pump (or a 20l drum hand pump) then leaving the fill plug out with a funnel under it into a catch can with the engine running is less messy and less likely to result in the pump shoving all the oil out faster than you can say "exxon valdez"

If you go it this way start with everything stone cold (and preferably do it late at night or early in the morning) remove the fan or blanket the front of the vehicle to reduce air flow under the vehicle. (all other safety precautions as appropriate)

• remove the fill plug (cause you'll feel like and idiot if you cant get it out later)
• remove the drain plug and get rid of the oil
• screw in your filling hose into the drain hole then connect it to your oil supply (you can gravity feed it if you need to)
• setup your catch system under the fill plug.
• Commence filling.
• when you see the oil start to come out of the fill plug start the engine, run it at about 1000 RPM (a helper is handy but not mandatory)
• keep it running and keep filling the oil until the oil comes out clean~er~ish enough (remember your also about to drop the pan and change the filter)
• shut it down, remove your filling hose and let it all drain out, wait for it to cool down again (which also helps drain all the oil out through the hole so there is less to drip on you while you faff about with the filter)
• Remove the pan
• change the filter
• Clean the pan
• replace the gasket
• replace the pan
• refill as per normal
  
  1. Replace drain plug (new oring/gasket/washer)
  2. Fill till oil just starts to come out of the fill hole (keep the filler hose in place)
  3. start engine
  4. fill till oil comes out of fill hole (leave fill hose in place)
  5. Cycle gear box through RND 3-2-1 and return to park or neutral
  6. top off oil level
  7. remove fill hose
  8. allow oil to drain from fill hole untill oil level is about 2mm above the bottom threads of the hole
  9. replace fill plug
  10. Shutdown
• replace Fan/remove blanketing

Thanks for that what is the purpose of the fan removal or blanket?

How many ltr of fluid do you use in this process?

Hey Dave,

Why do the pan, filter and O ring change last and lose all that new fluid? Is there a problem in draining what old oil you can, replace filter etc... and then doing your drain fill procedure?
I am presuming that the white plastic tube on the filter is the pick-up for the pump, so by feeding fresh fluid in there, you get it around the entire system before it returns to the pan - make sense?

Cheers,

Steve

pulling the fan or blanketing it just keeps the airflow down so you dont blow spilt oil everywhere, it also aids in warming everything up that bit faster to the cooler oil flow happens faster.


If you're going to do the full flush out theres a heap of contaminated oil in the TC and the cooler.

If you change the filter on the first go round you may well be contaminating it with the crud in that oil so its better to fill and drain untill you get to the "one more ought to do it" stage (which is typically 3-4 drains worth) and then change the filter so that way you have the freshest oil and a brand new filter for next time.

Personally I advocate doing a partial trans oil change with every engine service and a full service every 50-60K Km or every 2 years.

a partial oil change is basically starting the car and taking it for your test drive after all other service work is complete and then as soon as you stop it dumping the pans oil (just most of it dont wait for every single drop) and then refilling starting the engine and topping up. It should only take you 2-3l but its enough to keep the oil condition up and everything happy, its also very cheap insurance.

If you happen to find sparkly bits or for some reason the oil has gone real bad real fast you know you have to have a look see in there.

PWR coolers

• Part No: PWO6634 – 280x255x19mm 1/2″ Barb

Or cheaper option....the P38 Oil cooler is about 30% bigger and is not hard to mod to fit.