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Thread: Spigot bush removal

  1. #1
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    Spigot bush removal

    Any tips or tricks please?

    Flywheel's off, I'm looking at it -in pretty poor shape btw! - and it's stuck fast.

  2. #2
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    find a punch that just goes in the hole and has room for the bush to slide up it...

    fill the hole with grease

    insert punch, hit with hammer

    bush should move up punch in a perfect world...
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  3. #3
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    I live in an imperfect and now greasy world! Thanks for the tip.
    Tried a 11/16 long socket with short extender bar for the hydraulic seal. Backed socket and bearing with grease and firm whacking. No movement.

    Here's what it looked like when I pulled the flywheel off.


  4. #4
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    FWIW... I'd warm up the outside of the bush register with a heat gun etc to about 100 + deg C (enough to sizzle water to the touch) then spray the inside of the bush quickly with a liberal amount of Loctite Freeze and Release to shock freeze the bush... you might then get some movement. I've had quite a bit of success with that particular Loctite product in similar circumstances...
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  5. #5
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    Great. Might give that a try. Will go and buy some.

    I'm changing bell housing and other bits whilst I sort out what to do with the spigot.

    A assume the Dremel is the last resort

  6. #6
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    I used to remove blind bushes by cutting a thread into them with a plug tap then extracting with a puller or old bolt. Not sure what size you'd need, I suspect a 20mm or 3/4 tap would do it.

    Failing that sharpen up a very small chisel and cut a few grooves in the bush until you can collapse it. Replacement bushes need to be soaked in oil, overnight in a tin of engine oil seems to be OK. Or sit the bush on your thumb, fill it with oil, press your other thumb on the other end until oil oozes through the bush.

    Edit: Just tried it on my melted D2 engine and I used a 1/2 inch BSP taper tap. Just wound the tap in until it bottomed in the hole and it drew the bush right out. Time: less than one minute after selecting the tap.

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  7. #7
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    Well worn

    Thanks Bee-Utey.

    The ID of the bush has been worn out to 24.5mm; the ID of the new bush is 22mm. There's a lip of maybe 2mm at the front that doesn't appear so worn, and a gap of a few mm in front of that until the back of the block. Happily all seems surprisingly clean -no leaks.

    I had the graunching sound begin intermittently 18 months ago. I guess this is the result. it had stopped but I wonder If that's because there was no contact!

    Will head out to buy a tap and freeze release tomorrow. Sold out in Sunbury so a trip into town required. Mrs has the other car today.

  8. #8
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    It's out.

    Used the chisel gently. As the sides of the bush had worn so thin, the brass was easily chiselable with small taps. Took about 15 mins of gentle tapping to get the groove, then it came out. No scoring on the surrounds thankfully.

    The sides were 1.5 mm thick, should be 2.5. Was definitely time for a replacement! New one has been soaking in oil for a week. Fitting tomorrow and gearbox.

    PS. I justified the money I am saving doing this myself on a new McMillan 3hp 50lt tank compressor. Lovely piece of kit with a 1/2 rattle gun. I'm in love.

  9. #9
    lewy is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Just wondering why the replacement bush has to be soaked in oil[overnight] rather than just dipped into oil and inserted.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewy View Post
    Just wondering why the replacement bush has to be soaked in oil[overnight] rather than just dipped into oil and inserted.
    Replacement bush should be bronze.
    The oil soaks in slowly, whilst it doesn't look porous, it should be.
    Depending on the oil it doesn't soak through immediately.

    To dip in oil and replace might result in any excess oil being forced back then thrown onto the clutch friction plate. Now that would not be a good look!

    Hope this helps explain.

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