To check engine mounts look through hole in the bottom of the mount...
If she's visible up against the hole then consider replacing them..
Exhaust is fine. The problem happens in park too at 1700 rpm. So me under the d2 looking for things rattling was the fist thing I did..
The engine mount I checked with my crane there's no lifting separation but when you compare the gaps starting from the hole the passenger side looks like over 20mm and the drivers side 10mm. So 50% different.
I'm still searching for an answer on wether 50% different results in vibration.
Mine were both substantially lower than they are new and induced a fair vibration which was eliminated with new OEM mounts.
Engine mounts or gearbox mts. I have the HD TC fitted and there is no noise or vibration what so ever from it. In any rev range. I think if that was the case Ashcrofts would be telling people about it and maybe fixing the cause. I could not see them allowing something like that to be mainstream in 1 of their products.
Cheers Scott
Check the routing of the high/ low range and centre difflock cables against the floor of the vehicle. I have fixed numerous vibes through the floor of these by repositioning or sleeving the cables with rubber pipe. They can be hard against the floor after a trans removal and refit and since they transmit engine vibration they will be very noisy.
Also, if you have ACE then the ACE pipework can and will send lots of rattling/ vibrations through to the chassis/ body if anything is touching the lines. I once had a horrific racket from the ACE pipework in a V8 D2, found the culprit it was a piece of gravel sitting on top of the pipe cluster under the drivers floor/ bulkhead!
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I have spent months looking for a very similar rattle.
It turned out the be the heat shield on the transmission mount.
It has a crack in it right at the base as it goes under the mount.
Worth a look.
Out of frustration I replaced the ds motor mount. And all exhaust hangers.
Still doing it.
If only I could sit on a dyno and load the drive lines.
The problem is now more evident driving then parked.
Ill check the high cable in the morning.
The left hande transmission mount heat shield I took off.
If as mentioned its not something you have missed, ie; exhaust hitting against chassis etc etc, then get back to the simple obvious thing....
you have replaced the torque convertor with another, now you have a rumble sound, to me this only points to the TC or something bolted to it.
The harmonic balancer can be visually checked from under the vehicle, you will see if the rubber is all chewed, the amount of play can also be seen while holding the serpentine belt n moving it in the direction of rotation and back, watch the harmonic balancer move with the belt.
Engine mounts on a TD5 again can be very easliy checked visually. From both above or below. Look between the engine support and the rubber donut part of the mount, a good engine mount you will see what looks like a air space of round 20mm between the two. If the engine support is sitting on the rubber part, its flogged.
Although, why suddenly are these two items now suspected, I just dont see it.
Regards
Daz
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks