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Thread: ambient intake temp td5

  1. #1
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    ambient intake temp td5

    Ok, sorted out the VDO water temp issue I was having with help from you guys, faulty sensor reading incorrect range,
    Have a new question. I connect the nancom and the water temp now matches the VDO guage and even moves up and down like synchronised swimmers. I have checked other settings on the "Read Fuelling" and all seems good. MAF hits good numbers, boost is around the 211kilo pascols, which is around a peak of 30psi with no over boost, has a BD chip installed. What I thought was a bit odd was the ambient intake temperature. Almost from start up and certainly when warmed up is showing around the 102 degree mark. Varies a little bit but not much. The outside temperature switch on the dash at the present temperature reads around 26 degrees for outside, I thought that would be ambient and would be the same as the nancom ambient intake temp, I have a snorkel so more so thought would be the same or close.

    I know where the outside temp sensor is, front of the radiator, where does the nanacom get its ambient inlet temperature from???
    If this sensor is reading wrong and way too high would this be part of the reason I get good power but lousy economy around town? IE 15l/100k,

    Sorry for such a long way round to the question.........

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by landroverjack View Post
    where does the nanacom get its ambient inlet temperature from???
    It doesn't.

    Somehow Mattias and then BBS forgot to give the Nanocom the ability to read and display the reading from the Ambient Air Temp sensor which is part of the Ambient Air Pressure sensor located on the Airbox on EU3 engined Td5's.

    What the Nanocom does display in the Fuelling section is Inlet Air Temperature which is the reading from the Inlet Manifold. The IAT is combined in the same housing as the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. It's often called the MAP/IAT.

    cheers
    Paul

  3. #3
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    Your reading a tempreture that is turbo forced by your exhaust even tho its intercooled it will be higher than the ambient temp

  4. #4
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    MAF hits good numbers, boost is around the 211kilo pascols, which is around a peak of 30psi with no over boost has a BD chip installed. What I thought was a bit odd was the ambient intake temperature. Almost from start up and certainly when warmed up is showing around the 102 degree mark.
    Nanocom displays Manifold Absolute Pressure, so pressure referenced to a small vacuum reservoir in the sensor. So the 211 is absolute pressure not boost. You'd need to subtract the ambient pressure reading to find boost. At sea level it's around 101kpa, so you are getting about 110kpa boost or 16psi.

    Your IAT reading is very high. Even if the car is a dark colour and has been sitting in full sun all day it is high. I'd investigate further.

    cheers
    Paul

  5. #5
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    Some AAP info

    The AAP sensor is located in the top of the air filter housing.
    It provides two voltage outputs both 0<5Volts relative to both ambient air pressure and air temperature for the ECM.
    Not temperature on EU2/10p engine.

    Back probe the sensor wires to see the voltage the ECM gets.

    Example AAP
    Temperature output
    green/blue 3.7volts approx 8degrees C ok reading

    white/yellow 4.0 volts should be 84kpa ok reading

    pink/purple 5.2 volts supply ok reading

    pink/black 0 earth ok reading

    This test was at approx 50meters
    approx 8 degreesC engine running.


    Pressure sensing first.
    A reading of 0 volts indicates low pressure and a reading of 5 volts indicates high pressure.
    The ECM uses the signals from the AAP sensor for the following functions:
    To maintain manifold boost pressure.
    To reduce exhaust smoke emissions while driving at high altitude.
    Control of the EGR system.
    The inlet manifold pressure sensor MAP is to give the ECM inlet pressure and temperature.
    The ECM calculates the difference between the atmospheric (AAPsignal)and inlet pressures and it then knows what the actual charge pressure is.
    This figure is used to inject the correct amount of fuel to suit the current engine requirement and to control boost with aid of the boost modulator.

    The table below gives the voltage output expected on a good AAP sensors pressure sensor.
    Use the 1bar sensor line.



    Altitude Verses pressure graph



    Approx figures for testing voltage output using multimeter
    Air Temp C KOhms Voltage
    -40 880 4.53
    -30 573 4.48
    -20 272 4.33
    -10 183 4.20
    0 95 3.87 32°F 3.897
    10 66 3.55
    20 38 3.10 68°F 3.09
    30 27 2.70
    40 16 2.10
    50 12 1.8
    122°F 1.72
    60 7.5 1.3
    70 5.6 1.05
    80 3.8 0.75
    90 3.0 0.60
    100 2.2 0.45
    110 1.6 0.35
    120 1.2 0.25

    Have you recently cleaned your MAP/IAT sensor if not give it a clean with contact cleaner AAP can also be cleaned the same way.
    Good clean sensors give good outputs.

    Hope this helps Pete

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the input fellahs.


    Took out the sensor on the inlet manifold, not very dirty or oily, have a catch can and no EGR. Cleaned this up with MAF cleaner.
    Took the sensor out on the air filter, this was a tiny bit dusty but otherwise quite clean, cleaned with MAF cleaner anyway.
    MAf was cleaned not long ago and was giving good figures.


    Went for a quick drive, no "seat of the pants" difference, I 'll put the nanacom on this weekend and see if the inlet temp comes down at all.


    I know it is a 2.7t house brick and I am not 18yo so drive sensibly most of the time but I still reckon that 15l/100k economy in Sydney traffic is a bit high, last run to the farm only averaged 12l/100k over 600k's driving. It used to be much better, low 9's. Something has changed in the last 3 tanks of deiso. I guess I will just chip away bit by bit to see what is faulty, out of whack or just plain worn out.


    cheers guys,
    Jack

  7. #7
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    Same thing is happening with mine...

    Please if u find a fix let us know...


    Quote Originally Posted by landroverjack View Post
    Thanks for the input fellahs. Took out the sensor on the inlet manifold, not very dirty or oily, have a catch can and no EGR. Cleaned this up with MAF cleaner. Took the sensor out on the air filter, this was a tiny bit dusty but otherwise quite clean, cleaned with MAF cleaner anyway. MAf was cleaned not long ago and was giving good figures. Went for a quick drive, no "seat of the pants" difference, I 'll put the nanacom on this weekend and see if the inlet temp comes down at all. I know it is a 2.7t house brick and I am not 18yo so drive sensibly most of the time but I still reckon that 15l/100k economy in Sydney traffic is a bit high, last run to the farm only averaged 12l/100k over 600k's driving. It used to be much better, low 9's. Something has changed in the last 3 tanks of deiso. I guess I will just chip away bit by bit to see what is faulty, out of whack or just plain worn out. cheers guys, Jack
    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  8. #8
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    I was just talking to my mechanic earlier this week questioning the same thing, albeit mine has been more gradual. I can't believe that carrying an increasing over time load of tools in the back would make that much difference.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    I was just talking to my mechanic earlier this week questioning the same thing, albeit mine has been more gradual. I can't believe that carrying an increasing over time load of tools in the back would make that much difference.
    Hey Fellas

    Any wins re the decreased economy over time. I've also recently changed from 9.5l/100km to 15l/100km.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notamungo View Post
    Hey Fellas

    Any wins re the decreased economy over time. I've also recently changed from 9.5l/100km to 15l/100km.
    Probably not much use to you, but I recently did a 500km round trip with virtually an empty car, and the economy was better - only 1.5L/100 km (10.9 vs long term average of about 12.4), but proves the point.

    The other bit was just how much my economy got worse when I went from standard 29" tyres up to 31" (265 75 16s)- lost about another 1L/100km.

    One day I'll get back to Jose at TD5Inside to revisit my gentle economy/towing remap - never did after my unexpected engine change.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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