Reply With QuoteTd5 need plenty of volts to fire hook up to a running
car with jumper leads and have another go
M&S usually mean low volts battery flattening with fuel
pump ECUs charging and starter.
Hey guys,
About a month ago i bought a td5 which required a head gasket replacement. The previous owner had already removed the head . I have had the had machined, installed the new gasket, and everything is back together. However i can not get this bloody thing to start!!
I suspect there is air in the fuel lines but first i would like to make sure i have done a few things correctly.
On the fuel pressure regulator (on the side of the head) the line with the clip on connector (coming from the fuel tank) goes on the top - correct??
The tacho does not register anything whilst cranking - is this normal??
I have compression. I have been purging the lines using the method where you press the accelerator 6 times with the ignition in position 2, for at least the last 2 hours!!! I have also tried starting with the pedal down. Occasionally it kicks a little bit, like it wants to start...
I can still hear a little gurgling coming from the head or the fuel line , which sounds to me like there is still some air in there. However there are no fuel leaks which i can see...
Also the M and S lights are on. And there is a wire coming from what i believe is an oil pressure sensor... looks like it should be an earth... this isnt connected. I tried earthing it out - made no difference.
Cleaned the ecu plugs too - they were a little oily, but again, no difference
any tips on how to bleed this thing better??? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!
Ryan
Master
Td5 need plenty of volts to fire hook up to a running
car with jumper leads and have another go
M&S usually mean low volts battery flattening with fuel
pump ECUs charging and starter.
Master
On the fuel pressure regulator (on the side of the head) the line with the clip on connector (coming from the fuel tank) goes on the top - correct
Will check in the morning and let you know
The tacho does not register anything whilst cranking - is this normal??
Yes I think so
Also the M and S lights are on. And there is a wire coming from what i believe is an oil pressure sensor... looks like it should be an earth... this isnt connected. I tried earthing it out - made no difference.
The M&Slights is an indication that the battery voltage is low, the second wire on the oil pressure switch is an extra and does not connect to any thing
Where in Perth are you?
Master
im in marangaroo . Its cranking pretty hard , ill try again now with the battery fully charged. I might have to work today mate but i appreciate the offer and ill give you a message as soon as im free!
I didnt replace the copper washers at the bottom of the injectors and now i'm worried that this is the problem - would this cause no starting at all?
Also, i only have about 10 litres of fuel in the tank - should i have more?
Swaggie
Were the injectors replaced in their correct order ? They are coded to their own cyclinder . If they are replaced in the wrong position (order) your firing order will be wrong hence no start
ChatterBox
Sorry this is incorrect .Originally Posted by rangieman
Were the injectors replaced in their correct order ? They are coded to their own cyclinder . If they are replaced in the wrong position (order) your firing order will be wrong hence no start
The car will start and run despite this.
The codes are for the ECU to trim the injector appropriately for optimum operation.
Swaggie
Copper washers are the problem. you MUST replace them or air just keeps getting pushed into the fuel rail from compression pressures
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
thanks for all the replies guys. Ian (justfishing) came around today - twice - to help me outHe confirmed the timing was correct . I changed the copper washers but unfortunately it has made no difference.
The diagnostic tester revealed that the injectors are functioning properly. These were all numbered when they were removed and installed back in the correct order.
We are now suspecting the crank angle sensor - perhaps if it is faulty, the injectors do not work??
Does anyone know a way of testing it??
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