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Thread: D2a towing mods

  1. #1
    discolaw Guest

    D2a towing mods

    After starting to tow a 2t approx. van with my '04 td5 I found towing performance very ordinary which was not unexpected. It was a choice of a new towing vehicle or some upgrading work on the D2. With 145K up I figured the disco had some useful life left especially if just kept it mainly for towing duties so I went for the following:
    Davis remap
    Dewebbed manifold and upgraded studs
    extra auto tranny cooler kit
    replacement auto cooler hoses (as preventative maintenance)
    All up cost fitted by MR in Brisbane--$2860 approx.
    So far the results are very satisfactory with torque increased to 430nm resulting in on road pulling power now up there or a little better than the Prado/Pajero pack . Also the tranny is running cooler with the passenger no longer complaining about excessive cabin heat coming off the tranny. To the extent you can believe it the temp. gauge stays rock solid in the middle and I have an engine saver alarm just in case. All in all very happy with the $ spent and way cheaper than a new vehicle. Thought this might be some useful info for anyone like me who is a light duties DIY'er and considering the same thing.
    Cheers

  2. #2
    schuy1 Guest
    Thats a very minor outlay for the increases gained in the scheme of things No way you would have got away that light by replacing with a {maybe} more powerful "other" brand! Just on the factory temp gauge, they always sit rock solid in the middle , The only time they move is when the motor boils! sadly they seem to give no warning of temp increases. The best is fit a TM1/2 gauge or use the nanacom in instrument mode.
    Mine runs normal on 83-84 and spikes up to 98-100 on a long pull and 35 degree temps, but the factory gauge never moves!
    Cheers Scott

  3. #3
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    In the same vein, in terms of V8's my mate with a 4.6 and some cam just had custom made extractors, free flow cats, hurricane free flow muffler and big bore engine pipe to muffler fitted. It has made a very noticeable difference to HP and torque.

    Cheers

    PS. I see people talk down extractors but I wonder if this is first hand experience or not. I also wonder about the quality of those extractors commented on. The fella who did this set is excellent.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by discolaw View Post
    After starting to tow a 2t approx. van with my '04 td5 I found towing performance very ordinary which was not unexpected. It was a choice of a new towing vehicle or some upgrading work on the D2. With 145K up I figured the disco had some useful life left especially if just kept it mainly for towing duties so I went for the following:
    Davis remap
    Dewebbed manifold and upgraded studs
    extra auto tranny cooler kit
    replacement auto cooler hoses (as preventative maintenance)
    All up cost fitted by MR in Brisbane--$2860 approx.
    So far the results are very satisfactory with torque increased to 430nm resulting in on road pulling power now up there or a little better than the Prado/Pajero pack . Also the tranny is running cooler with the passenger no longer complaining about excessive cabin heat coming off the tranny. To the extent you can believe it the temp. gauge stays rock solid in the middle and I have an engine saver alarm just in case. All in all very happy with the $ spent and way cheaper than a new vehicle. Thought this might be some useful info for anyone like me who is a light duties DIY'er and considering the same thing.
    Cheers
    CRITICAL - get an engine saver coolant alarm.
    VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - get an engine temp gauge. I use my Nanocom Evo which is my best investment ever - multi-tasking/friend maker.
    Decatting and ERG removal should be next
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    In the same vein, in terms of V8's my mate with a 4.6 and some cam just had custom made extractors,
    Cheers
    Pics and business name?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #6
    discolaw Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    CRITICAL - get an engine saver coolant alarm.
    VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - get an engine temp gauge. I use my Nanocom Evo which is my best investment ever - multi-tasking/friend maker.
    Decatting and ERG removal should be next

    My post mentions I have a coolant alarm.
    Have previously done the other things you refer to altho I haven't been using my nano for eng. temp. I was hoping the std. gauge reads coolant temp. and the alarm covers coolant loss. Should I have a aux. temp gauge as well, or use the nano,---in fact do I want to know and give myself one more worry.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by discolaw View Post
    My post mentions I have a coolant alarm. Have previously done the other things you refer to altho I haven't been using my nano for eng. temp. I was hoping the std. gauge reads coolant temp. and the alarm covers coolant loss. Should I have a aux. temp gauge as well, or use the nano,---in fact do I want to know and give myself one more worry.
    No need for another engine coolant temp gauge.

    You do need an EGT gauge.
    Towing and chip/ remap = higher EGT.
    Some folks have had chip/ remap that has pushed EGT to unsustainable temps when towing or on long hills.

  8. #8
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    Oops! I thought you'd said you had an alarm on my first read, but only re-read the main list so missed that.
    I agree with Stangy re EGT - I drive on mine all of the time, however, I like a coolant temp gauge that works (as well as an alarm) hence my nanocom stays on board all of the time and I never even look at the original LR one.
    I run at 86 - 90 in ordinary mode and about 92 - 94 in normal towing. I have an Allard oversize intercooler, big ATF radiator with auto fan and manual over-ride, Ashcroft style torque converter, Jose stage 1 remap for towing/economy and new standard LR radiator/new hoses (was talked out of spending a grand on an oversize radiator at the time, but??? I have not yet touched my boost.

    Going up the big hill outside of Melbourne en route to Ballarat in January on a 44 degree day pulling a camper trailer, I got up to 107 degrees momentarily. Experts here say safe up to 115-120, but I normally use 100 as a backoff point.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  9. #9
    discolaw Guest
    Was looking at egt issue hence the mod to manifold & studs. When you say back off when the egt is up there do mean actually stop asap or just back off the go pedal. In any case it sounds like an egt gauge would be a wise precaution.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I agree with others that an EGT gauge is a very wise investment. You will notice a huge difference to how you drive. When climbing a hill, you will get huge EGTs if you just bury your right foot. By backing off your foot you will find a sweet spot where the performance does not drop but EGTs can be 150 degrees lower. Anything above this point is just adding fuel for no gain, with the extra fuel just adding extra heat.

    My remap certainly pushed EGTs higher than with a standard tune. The gauge is needed to keep them under control. (It can make you more paranoid though? :-) )

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