Do you still need one Rob?Quote:
Originally Posted by Phat-Customs
Printable View
Do you still need one Rob?Quote:
Originally Posted by Phat-Customs
If the disco comes back from the panel shop, I wouldn't mind looking into one.
I get the impression from when I bought mine it is a 'one man band' making them, and he seems to sell them based on word of mouth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phat-Customs
I've had mine for about 2 years now, still working a treat :D
Would agree with Kelvo, I think possibly locally made. Printed circuit in a plastic component box like you can buy in Jaycar. Anyway it does what is claimed, longevity? Ask me in a few years time.
Instructions a bit hard to follow, but with the info in this thread it is no problem to install.
Hunter Di Spare Parts Co.
37 Millet Street
Hurstville NSW 2220
Mob: 0413813698
hunterdispares@yahoo.com.au
An other Question here: i installed the Hunter-Box and it works with the 265/75 great. No problems at installation, Slunnies instructions are great here!
But: i would drive the 265/75 only at summer and my 245/75 at winter (i live in Bavaria, real winter tires are a must here!).
I don't want at every tire change pull the plugs at the ecu. I imagine about a switch, where i can select between big and small.
My question is, shall i just break the power supply of the Hunter-Box or have somebody an advice for an "Selector-Switch" at the sensor-cables?
Or do you another solution?
Many thanks!
Do you mean to set up with 2 speedo correction units? If so, I would just use a DPDT type switch to control the input and output switching of the 2 SCU's. Throw the switch one way and one SCU is connected and the other disconnected, throw the switch the other way and the SCU connection is swapped. Both are always powered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Werdenfelser
Not two Units.
Only one.
One Tireset with the original signal and one Tireset corrected by the box.
So i need a switch between the original signal and the box. Or can i switch the box off and the original signal is smuggled through the box?
Or you can just open the box and change switches to default position.
If you still have instruction sheet look under C6100-2 In/out Ratio column for 1.0000 ratio which is default ratio and gives no change and set switches accordingly.
If you don't still have sheet, default switch setting is 00001010.
1 means up, 0 means down. Make sure you record current switch position for next tyre change.
You might have to try the box off to see if it faults or passes the signal through. I'd expect it to fault though as the signal gets processed and regenerated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Werdenfelser
I'd do the same setup, but just exclude 1 SCU, so wire the switch to just pass the signal through or to split in the SCU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommo1166
175+ Clams seems kinda steep for a home-brew box of trickery...
Cheaper than a speeding fine though I spose.
Why have we not hit the builder/supplier for AULRO discount???
What other doo-dads does he make?
Perhaps something to replicate the SLS PLIP that isnt 75 Euro.