Thread: I am becoming afraid about D2 reliability

Mate you can change to an earlier frequency like I did...no more interference. New receiver and code keys. The only part I might now carry in the glovebox will be a crank position sensor that can be changed by the roadside in 15 mins with a couple of spanners. Can't help,with ACE...why don't you pull it off and out standard anti-roll bars on?

Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

Mate you can change to an earlier frequency like I did...no more interference.

What frequency did you change to? The early D2 (and P38) was 315MHz & they went to 433MHz to overcome interference issues.

Did you go back to 315MHz?

Mate I cannot recall - this was 4 years into ownership and out of warranty. Land Rover paid for all the bits and I paid for labour - 1.5 hours from memory - they remove the hood lining to get to the receiver. The parts were expensive then ex dealer at least. It could have been late D1 frequency.

When I got my D2 in 2002 I was constantly having problems with AMCAL chemists - their scanners used the same frequency. I could be quite a distance away and I simply couldnt open (with the remote) or start the vehicle, until it was pushed, towed away. I told LR it was unacceptable and was a problem in warranty also, and in the end they agreed to change it. Not 1 issue since, so 8 years after the change and still never an issue anywhere and I do a lot of travelling and a lot of city work also. A person who might know if Neil Wallace from Blue Ribbon motors at Yamanto in Qld - he advised me on the frequencies even though they had given the LR sign back by that stage. Great fellow.

Cheers

Just to be clear my car is going well!
It is 2 other cars I have tried to help both D2s.
I have had a no start a couple of times but I think those may have been time outs where you have to start within 5 minutes of putting the key in the ignition and that was a year ago.
I was pretty surprised that the bloke at the ferry did not have a spare key.
The car was a TD5 S manual with no arch flares and steel wheels, so I think they were the earlier frequency.
Regards Philip A

Mate in 2002 you could still get a manual V8 or TD5 with steel wheels and no wheel arch plastic mouldings - mine was one such beast in V8 guise and I changed the steelies to mags - it had no rear centre seat head rest, no electric mirrors and no cargo blind. This was an S (the base) model (later, S models meant something else again).

Cheers

2002 was the only model year this was available.
The LR model code was TL0 (trim level zero).

You need to remember that the oldest D2s (eg mine) are now 15 years old.
If you're on this forum, it's a given you use the things as they were meant to be used so no doubt they have a harder life than most.

All the problems/things I've had to fix (leaking ACE, head gaskets, fuel pump, shocks, tie rods, driveshaft..) have been age/wear related, unfortunately being a Landy and not a Tojo means that things are always a bit pricier to do.

I do have to say though that the Disco has had the most of these issues of any car I've owned. Strangely enough the most reliable cars I've had have been a Commodore and an RX-7! Who'da thunk it!

Dont believe the press that Toyo parts for LC's are cheaper...they are about the same price as LR when you average them out. Both are cheaper and more available than Jeep.

The most unreliable car I have owned for bits not working was a VT Commodore S 5 Speed Manual V6 - owned from new for 4 years. Rotors constantly going out of shape; Air con compressor failure at 2 years; Power steering pump failure and some other annoying stuff. The D2 has been the second most reliable with the D1 being the most reliable.

But yep these vehicles are getting on, and I think are standing the test of time very well. I can see me having my V8 Disco 2 with all the fun bits hanging off it well and truly long enough to make it a classic. For mine the bits that will cause problems at times are the ABS sensors...no different to problems with 100 and 200 series LC's that have lifts put in - sure enough ABS lights go on with movement of the sensors and leads. All ABS vehicles will have wheel sensor problems - its just that we use our Discos off road and with extra vibration etc will likely come error codes - plus the WABCO units are probably a little prone. These things are easily fixed and relatively cheap to do so.

Cheers