Completely and utterly flabbergasted

I agree with the above. Air in fuel system. I had this after cylinderhead overhaul.
You may already have tried this but, turn ignition on (Xmas tree of dash lights) and immediately start pumping the throttle as fast as possible. The check engine light should illuminate and the fuel purge cycle begin (stop pumping pedal). Pump runs and stops automatically for a few minutes then cycle ends. Air bubbles may be heard moving in pressure regulator, cooler and pump. If it is air pockets you should hear a difference, perhaps after a few purge cycles.

Hope this is some help. Jason.

Jason, in the op it states he did this...multiple times.

I remember when I did a filter I had to bleed fuel three times before it ran right.

to much oil in the tranny.

you check the level with the motor running. do not fill to overflowing like a manual box. to much drag on the T coverter, to much oil in it.

makes like the motor wants to start but will not catch

Pain in the ass, but can you swop fuel pumps with the other Disco ?

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. It's really appreciated and it shows the good bond between Land Rover owners.
-It was suggested it could be the CPS; I was thinking the same when the fault occurred. Would this throw up the flashing M+S lights? From my experience it wouldn't show anything on the dash and the car would crank but not start.
-Air in the fuel lines; I probably bled the fuel system 10 times. I am aware of the trick by pressing the throttle five times with ignition on to start the bleed process.
-It was suggested to swap the fuel pumps between cars. Personnaly I don't think that would help as a faulty fuel pump wouldn't show the M+S lights flashing. Also, there is plenty of fuel running out of the filter drain when the ignition is switched on and the water level sensor removed. It also builds up adequate pressure.
-There are no leaks at the fuel block (RH side of the engine)
-Thanks for the hint with the EKA code, I'll ring ULR later on to find out if they can help me.
-The electronic gremlin does make most sense but we still haven't pinpointed the problem. Hopefully by applying the EKA-code we might be able to reset the BCU.
Thank you all for your help!
I've been surfing the LR-forums and it seems I'm not the only one with this problem. Unfortunatley now solutions are listed. Once we found out what it is we will post it to this forum.

I know it's been suggested but how much fuel is in your tank, last time I changed fuel filter with just under 1/4 tank it would not start so I put 20 l jerry can in and it primed and started

Ignoring the M&S lights for the moment....


Looking at the fuel system as it sounds like no fuel is getting to the engine - Rave shows the route as fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel cooler, Fuel pressure regulator, injectors. Alien has suggested checking the fuel flow from the regulator to the injectors - have you done this?


I read that you checked the fuel flow at the filter but did not see any mention of the FPR.


Perhaps verifying that fuel actually reaches the injectors may be revealing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Franz

Ignoring the M&S lights for the moment....


Looking at the fuel system as it sounds like no fuel is getting to the engine - Rave shows the route as fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel cooler, Fuel pressure regulator, injectors. Alien has suggested checking the fuel flow from the regulator to the injectors - have you done this?


I read that you checked the fuel flow at the filter but did not see any mention of the FPR.


Perhaps verifying that fuel actually reaches the injectors may be revealing.

---

Apologies, I got the fuel flow wrong - it should be fuel pump - Fuel Pressure Regulator - Injectors - Fuel Pressure Regulator - Fuel Cooler - Fuel Filter - Fuel Pump (this for the high pressure section).


There is also a low pressure connection between the Fuel Pump and the Fuel Filter.


Anyway, perhaps check the high pressure feed to the fuel regulator to see if fuel is getting to the injectors.

As I said before, pull the plastic plug out of the front of the head and see if the cam is turning.

I was dealing with one that stopped for no reason, and couldn't be restarted after working through all the normal steps.

It had a broken cam chain.

I cant imagine it will be the case here, but as you can rule it out in about 30 seconds check it before you thrown more money/time at it.

Hi uniland44,

I have reread your processes and I still am firmly of the belief that all you have is air in the injectors because of the following:

1) When you started it after the change of filters it ran until air finally displaced the fuel in the injectors which happened during topping up the transmission.
2) Going through the purge cycle does not remove the air in the injectors.
3) Probably exacerbated by swopping the fuel filter again and other actions.

In my experience the TD5 is notoriously hard to start once the injectors are full of air as air only compresses on the injection stroke so I would persevere with trying to start it, you may be surprised.

Nick