Bullbars come with steel crush cans which bolt onto the chassis in place of the bumper brackets.
While fitting a new radiator I've decided to ditch the factory "bullbar". I have a D1 Smartbar I'd like to fit as my wife wanta the tough look and I don't want the dead pedestrians (just maimed).
The factory bullbar had two very simple flanges that fitted onto slotted flanges welded on the bottom side of the chassis. So the stock bullbar doesn't connect to or around the crush cans and looks like it was designed to slide on a heavy impact and slide back until the thing your hitting smashes through the bumper into the crush cans.
The Smart bar has two box shaped flanges that fit snugly over the crush cans with two bolt holes lining up with the bolts on that hold the running gear protwctive bar to the chassis (so the Smartbar is fastened to the chassis but cuddles the crush cans. My commonsense head prefers the Smart bar as it would transfer a light impact to the chassis but a destructive one would (it seems) hit the crush cans (and allow activation if the airbags right?).
Anyways, all that is between Queensland transport and me so I should check it out there. What I'd like to know is:
1 How are all your proper bullbars (ARB, TJM etc) fitted. To a slidey flange thingy welded on the chassis or with a box bracket over the crush cans and onto the four bolts holding the running gear protector? That question is just for my curiosity.
2 have a look in the third photo, you'll see the aluminium brackets for the bumper. These will stop the Smartbar from being slid all the way to the fixing bolts. Has anyone taken these off? They seem tiobe held on by black rivets? Or were they cut off when you had a bullbar fitted? Any ideas here would really help!
Ps Smartbar vs steel bar debate has been covered in other threads![]()
Can't afford a big steel one anyway!
Bullbars come with steel crush cans which bolt onto the chassis in place of the bumper brackets.
Thanks EvilGTV, that makes sense.
I won't expect too much of this Smartbar but must fit it to regs.
Looking more closely it seems the bumper flanges are attached by rivets to the crush cans for that reason: aluminium cans suit plastic bumper bars, while bullbars can't be fitted without replacing the cans with appropriate steel cans?
Which makes the factory bar even more mysterious, as it can fit with no change in cans.
So these boxes on the airbag compatibke Smartbar might function as crush cans. I'll need to check with a bullbar place I guess.
Those boxes don't look to collapsible to me! You absolutely sure it's airbag compatible?
If you look at the pic for the usual ARB/TJM or other compatible bars, they are specifically designed to provide a point of 'weakness' so that the airbags are triggered appropriately.
D4 SDV6, a blank canvas
As the Smart Bar is plastic you may not need crush cans because the bar takes up the shock and will collapse in an impact. This also applies to Alloy bars.
Cheers,
Dave.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
I just spoke with Smartbar tech staff on the phone and, as you stated Landover, the Smartbar steel bracket bolts directly to the chassis, soft (aluminium etc) crush cans are unnecessary (and are not to be used) as the plastic Smartbar deforms considerably. The steel brackets look very solid (about 6mm mild steel maybe?) but don't seem to be designed (in my completely uninformed opinion) for controlled collapse at all, having no diagonal, V or concertina sections. This is consistent with Smartbar's assertion that it is the Smartbar that absorbs impact not the brackets. The techie at Smartbar also confirmed that any modifications to the bar such as cutting holes for fog lightswould void airbag compatibility (as thus roadworthiness and Smartbar's liability) as it would potentially compromise the controlled-collapse design of the bar in heavy impacts. This makes sense to me. He did say that small holes may not in practical terms affect the dynamics of the Smartbar in a crash but in legals terms etc it would.
He also noted that while the provided fittings for winch, spotlights and aerial (left side upright brass bolts embedded in bar) should be used small additional items could be fitted with course threaded self tapping screws (to gain decent purchase in the soft plastic). So it looks like a straight bolt on, D2 may I hear need a whisker shaved from the bottom of the grill, which I will check now.
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