Thread: Td5 Engine Surging

then the pressure side of that sensor is OK, if you want to investigate further measure the voltage on the sensor's plug pin2 from behind(or if you can't reach it with the probe insert a sewing needle in the green/black wire and measure on that) see what or if you get voltage and use a hair dryer on the sensor to see if it senses it or not...to rule out the temp reading of this sensor too if you see what i mean(with engine running)

Originally Posted by Franz

I was looking at a tutorial on that today and was thinking I should get into it - that's the one on the inlet manifold - right?

Yes. I always carried a clean spare to change on the roadside if the hesitation got too annoying.

Originally Posted by Franz

How do I convert the Nanocom data into Excel format - can't seem to find any info on how to do it with a Gen1 Nanocom - user manual was not revealing either.

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You use the graphic viewer which should have been installed with the nanocom program. Open the .fu1 file with this and it will show you traces from the various sensors. There's a "save as csv" option under the file menu.

Thanks Iansoady.


I don't have the graphics viewer - I've looked on the Nanocom website and can't seem to locate it - do you know where I can get a copy?


Cheers,


Franz

Yesterday I noticed a new symptom.


At the bottom of a hill I decided to boot the accelerator and the engine started to hesitate around 2,750 RPM and kept hesitating till about 4,000 RPM by which time I was over the speed limit and had to back off.


I borrowed a MAF from a mate and it did not conclusively fix the issue but with my old MAF it seems worse? I'm just not sure if it is the MAF though. I'll take it for a longish drive today and then, half way through the journey, disconnect the MAF and see what happens.

Maybe not relevant but when I bought my 2002 EU3 it used to miss when tipping back in after going down freeway hills.

I replaced and cleaned the things you have , replaced MAF, wiring harness and Modulator, cleaned MAP.

What seemed to cure it was cleaning out the EGR valve . I replaced the seals in the FPR and to get access, I removed the inlet manifold.

I found the EGR valve at the end of the inlet manifold to be full of carbon, so I cleaned it out with a Gerni. Theory is that the EGR valve gets gunked up and doesn't close quickly, so air fuel ratio is affected.
Regards Philip A

Philip,


This may be a dumb question but does your fix apply when the EGR has been removed?

I don't know but unlikely.
However mine was so coked up that it was about 10% less in cross section.
If you removed EGR and replaced the EGR valve with a bit of pipe then no.
Regards Philip A