Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: How to remove gearbox

  1. #1
    LRO's Avatar
    LRO is offline Master Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bray Park (Brisbane)
    Posts
    231
    Total Downloaded
    0

    How to remove gearbox

    Hi

    How do you get to the last top bolt of the bell housing to take the gearbox of
    1997 D2

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,828
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I assume Rave does not give much guidance then? Can't remember exactly how I did it, but two ideas come to mind:

    Refit a few of the other bolts so that all the weight is not on only a few bolts. Remove the rear mounts for the gearbox and anything else that will prevent it from lowering. Support the gearbox weight with appropriate jack and lower it a bit to give you some room to work. Be cautious of this as you don't want to angle it too far and damage your front engine mounts.

    Might need to use a combination of extensions, uni joints and wobble bits to get to the bolts.

    Otherwise attack it from the top with the appropriate sized spanner. May need to cut it down, heat it and bend it, etc. to customise it to fit.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Burpengary Qld
    Posts
    186
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have only removed a D1 gearbox, lowering the rear allowed the engine & gearbox to tilt back to give enough room to reach the top two bolts.
    Points to watch are the fan and radiator and rear top of the engine to the bulkhead.
    We used a 50mm SHS through the front door windows suspended from the carport. We had a chain hoist from the SHS through the center console around the gearbox

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
    Posts
    3,828
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ollie View Post
    We used a 50mm SHS through the front door windows suspended from the carport. We had a chain hoist from the SHS through the center console around the gearbox
    Yes, with the D1 Rave recommends using the chain through the shifter hole. I used an engine crane and chain wrapped around the gearbox for that. It was much easier than doing the D2.

    With the D2 the shifter (on the automatic at least) doesn't get removed and this wasn't the recommended method in Rave.

  5. #5
    LRO's Avatar
    LRO is offline Master Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bray Park (Brisbane)
    Posts
    231
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi
    All good we didn't have the jack at the back down as far as it would. Box is now out just have to the right throw out bearing

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    LRO, It isn't clear whether you have a 1997 D1, or a later year (1999 on) D2, Td5 or V8? if you are replacing clutch etc then you MUST replace the spigot bush in the back of the crankshaft also. This is actually the cause of the groaning noise when releasing the clutch on a Td5 , worse usually when cold. The throwout bearing is usually not the culprit for this sound.


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    211
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Undo the exhaust from the engine to the flange at the back of the gearbox. Undo the cross members behind the engine around the gearbox. The engine will tilt a bit. If it's still not enough. Drop the engine mounts. You can get it then but it's tight. Enjoy.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!