Yes that sounds doable with a couple of relays.
Have a look here for some ideas:
Relay Diagrams - Quick Reference
Just thinking out loud here guys,
wondering if any of the electrical gurus could chip in.
D2, non adaptive headlights- so ive got the blanking panel.
Ive just bought myself 3 'Rear' foglight switches (go go in positions 2, 3 and 4 down the binnacle and moved the actual rear foglight to the bottom RHS
I know the actual switches wont work as they are momentary controlled by the BCU- i only wanted the face plate from them (I have a couple of spare Puma heated seat and Freelander Cruise switches).
Now, currently my lightbar is hooked to a cruise control switch in position 1 on the LHS of the binnacle.
Currently its wired illegally as its direct on/off and not into the headlights.
(future spotlights will be wired into position 2,3 etc)
Is there any way that I could get the switch for the self levelling headlights and use the 3 positions available there make them them legal?
IE position 0- Headlights must be on for binnacle switches to work
Position 2- Lightbar (and future foglights) can be used without the headlights being on- kind of like a 2 way switch.
Position 3- ???
Any ideas/comments?
Cheers, Cameron
Yes that sounds doable with a couple of relays.
Have a look here for some ideas:
Relay Diagrams - Quick Reference
Cheers
Simon
2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.
Are you trying to do this because you don't have enough switch locations?
You could simply have them wired to 2 switches. Switch 1 gets power from Head lights. Switch 2 from accessories.
You mentioned you would like them legal, however even with a 3 way switch if you can turn them on without the headlights on it is not legal anyway? Also can't light bars only be used with high beam like spot lights?
I can understand what you are trying to achieve with the 3 way switch, but i can't understand how it will make them legal? The 3 way switch probably has only one common anyway, so the source will still be the same.
I'm not trying to shoot you down. But i'm not sure it will be legal.
Not so muh trying to make them completely legal,
Just 'more legal'
More a just in case scenario- pulled over by a cop, flick the switch so that the Aux lights will only work with the high beam on. No problems here officer.
There are scenarios that I only need the lightbar on at times (we often arrive late to campsites and Lightbar alone is perfect for light while setting up)
Or, I plan to run yellow beam spotlights, and my headlights are the 'blue' kind so in the rain/fog they are a pain, so on deserted roads I wouldn't mind flicking back to parkers and just running the Yellow fog/spots
Plenty of switch locations left, I've still got the whole left hand side of the binnacle (3 slots) left
Top left is now Lightbar (on a rear fog switch) and rear fogs have been moved to below the cruise on the right- I barely use them as is)
I'll probably also hook my rear lightbar up to a switch aswell (currently tapped into reverse, but wouldn't mind that with alternate switchable power source)
So I'll have Lightbar, spot lights, possibly roof/cage lightbar and rear lightbar all down the left of the binnacle.
Obviously only the forward facing Aux lights is want tapped into the 3-way
I know it's possible- with an aftermarket switch- a friend has his lights hooked up 2-ways like what I'm after, but I'm trying to gauge (and work out the wiring) if the factory headlight adjust switch could work.
I haven't got a 3-way as yet so wasn't sure if it was even feasible before hunting for one.
A Discovery 2 or Defender headlamp levelling switch is no good for this - as it contains a series of resistors -
My suggestion would be to use a Rover 100 (Metro) Heater Fan Switch YUK10003
This is a straight-forward - Off/3-Postion Rotary Switch, which is dimensionally identical to the Discovery 2 and Defender Headlight Adjuster Switch.
You can get one NEW on eBay UK (without Knob or Locknut) -
METRO HEATER FAN SWITCH, BRAND NEW (EEP0106) | eBay
.
The Knob and Locknut from a Headlamp Levelling Switch (which comes complete with them) will also fit the Metro Blower Switch, but the Blower Switch Knob has just a white line on it instead of a Lamp symbol -
Alternatively, both the Knob and the Locknut have Rover Cars and Land Rover Part No's
Knob - Metro Heater/Blower - YUM10001
Knob - Discovery 1 Rear Aircon & Defender 50th Heater Fan/Aircon - YUM10001L
Locknut - Metro Heater - YUN10001
Locknut - Discovery 1, Rear Aircon - YUN10001L
Some of these parts are no longer available new
Here's how the Blower Switch is wired -
Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
.
Cheers Paul, that's exactly the kinda of info I was chasing!
Might have to trace a set of that down somewhere.
Not sure how it'll fit in the position on the Disco, but I'm sure I can figure something out.
Even if it means I have to hide the switch mechanism somewhere- I'm trying to avoid cutting/drilling into dash pieces that can't be easily replaced (blanking panels)
You are currently running relays with the factory switches I hope..
If thats the case, just take the feed from the high beam wire to the switch and its all legal
Yeah Tombie,
Currently only have the Lightbar, but yes- the loom does have an integrated relay.
However, the purpose of this post is to get an idea of how to have the lightbar switched 'two ways'- one being on anytime; through the factory switch, the other, switchable via the factory switch but on the condition that the highbeams are on.
Currently the relay simply takes feed from 12v, I'd like to have it switchable between 12v and the high beam signal
And to determine if the factory 3way headlight switch can do this- which Paul advised it won't
Right...
Can I ask why both options? Its more convenient to have them shut down with high beam anyway...
There are times where I'd prefer to not have my high beams on to have the auxiliary lights on
My headlights are the Narva Blue90- great low beam, but the blue tinge to the high beam makes them **** in rain,
Plus my spotlights, I plan on using halogens with the yellow fog filters, which would perform better in rain/fog than high beam would
Or night-run 4wding, Lightbar only would be preferential to high beam
That's why I want to run them through a switch, so when I'm driving on the street a quick flick of the high beam turns them all off again, but I have the option of running them independently
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