Thread: ACE worth keeping ???

Pulling the fuse or such either locks the ace bars or makes them floppy. Neither simulates the difference between ace and no ace, more like ace locked on or no stabiliser at all.

I drove with no stabilisers connected at all (on original shocks), then just the front fitted then the rear as well. The non ace bars do plenty.

I removed the SLS as well

Regards

There are different default modes for different system faults, fuse out = no ignition feed = "locked bars" condition which is IMO min. 95% the same with conventional anti roll(from personal testing compared with factory non-ACE one); in this condition the actuator is locked by even oil pressure from both sides of it which makes it like a "bold" torsion bar cos the rest 3/4 of the bar is the same. Floppy will become only in case of DCV stuck open then it's like a small boat on a wavy ocean cos the fluid circulates free from one actuator to the other

anyway, especially if you have a roof rack and used to travel with the car well loaded the ACE is brilliant in curves at higher speeds ... this little video is relevant IMO(without ACE, on normal anti-roll the D2 being a bit taller would lean more than the others) [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4opZF1mDjM[/ame]

IMO if you can afford you better fix it than convert it... a full set of new pipes or two new actuators are cheaper than the conversion kit and much less labour, all the other faults are also less expensive cos the most common is the pressure transducer and the ebay is full of perfectly functional pumps, ECUs and valve blocks due to that conversion hysteria as i saw many cases when the owner decided to convert it due to only one leaking pipe

everybody's choice though

MERRY CHRISTMAS