Thread: Getting constant power

Peter i just went thru this on my D1, even if there is a constant 12V availabe you realy want heavier cable for your fridge.
10m of 6mm2 for $31 off ebay is what i used along with a waeco dual merit/cigi socket.

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I used one of the Waeco kits in my D1 with power straight from the battery. Worked a treat.

I was hoping that there was a way to keep it looking factory while meeting my needs. A bit presumptuous, I know but I'd hope that the wiring to that socket would be a bit beefier as it would likely run a fridge or similar. Might have to go digging ...

Did you see the pic of where i mounted mine, i'm quite happy with the result.

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Link to the pic?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=210876

12V power to rear of D1.

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When I bought my D2 someone had already hard wired the rear aux cig socket to have a permanent 12v feed. I haven't bothered to fully trace it out but it's like this ... A 12v positive has been run from the second battery (in the engine bay), with a 15A spade fuse at the battery positive, across the back of the engine bay and up under the dash inside, into as I presume, the rear of the fuse box to pickup the feed to the rear socket, thus making it permanently powered. The wiring used is pretty small, but way bigger than the wiring that connects to the back of the cig socket in the rear ... Running the fridge in the rear results in about a 1.25v drop. Not ideal but it was what it was .... Since I ran a proper feed to the rear and mounted a power panel on the drawers I have just left it and now use it exclusively with a small 3 outlet board with USB adapters for charging iPads and iPhones and DS's ... Works quiet well for this, and it's always on.

It's handy to have it permanently powered (for low draw useage like I outlined above) but the wiring that's run to it is way undersized to use it for anything else.

6B&S feed to the rear for dual andersons, and branched off those with 8B&S up to the power panel for fridge and extra outlets.

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