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Thread: Fitting C6100-4 Radio Interface Unit

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren
    Posts
    835

    Fitting C6100-4 Radio Interface Unit

    I was needing to fit a speedo correction unit to my D2. The Truspeed units that others had fitted in the past are no longer available so I was on the hunt for options. One AULRO member went to an instrument place in NSW and took some pics of the unit they used, A C6100 SCU from Hunter Di Spares.

    A quick google search brought up an email for Hunter (hunterdispares@yahoo.com.au) and I was able to order one from him directly for about $176.

    My next stop was to refer to a post Slunnie did when he fitted a Truspeed SCU. The points at which you tap into the SLABS computer etc. remain the same for the C6100 so it was fairly straightforward to follow.

    I decided to have the unit mounted under the steering wheel for ease of access.

    Grab power from the top vacant terminal. This can be done by wiring up a female spade bit to the +ve on the SCU. Attach the earth to a handy point nearby on the metal framework near the fuses.



    Go to the passenger footwell next and remove the cardboard protective cover. Nearest the outside of the vehicle is the SLABS ECU, it has 5 plugs going into it and you want to remove the fourth one away from you.

    It can be rather tight in there as the wiring loom in mine didn't have much slack.



    Find the pink/green wire in the corner, if in doubt, refer to Slunnie's post as it refers to pin location etc.



    Cut this wire and fit terminals onto the two parts. I'd recommend using male and female so you can reconnect if you wish.



    The wires attached to the unit are not long enough to reach across the dash so you'll need to purchase some extra length. 2m of 2 core wire is plenty and I used a coat hanger to poke through the transmission tunnel near the feet vents.



    Fit some terminals to this extra wire and note which is the wire that joins closest to the SLABS plug, this is the input signal to the C6100 (white wire). The other wire connects to the output signal wire (green) and joins to the other part of the cut wire near the SLABS ECU. The brown wire on the SCU is not used.







    Now that the unit is wired up its time to calibrate. The unit comes with some tables listing ratios and corresponding switch positions. The 1 ratio is not making any change to the signal being sent through the box.

    If your speedo is under-reading then you need to look for a ratio less than 1. For example, with 32" tyres my speedo was under-reading by 10% so I looked for a ratio close to 0.9. Apply the appropriate switch positions that match this and do a test run. This was spot on for me and you can vary to suit yourself if you'd like to factor in a safety margin for error.

    Be wary when using a GPS to check the speed as it is a historical reading. I'd recommend using a flat piece of highway, set cruise at 100 and get a constant reading on the GPS to get the best idea of how far your speedo is out. Once you know that, then apply the appropriate ratio.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Victoria - Pakenham
    Posts
    1,267
    Top stuff good write up.

    Just in case people don't notice the name Slunnie is actually a link to the other post PeterM is referring to.

    www.slunnie.com :: View topic - Truespeed speedo correction installation

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Posts
    397
    Perfect timing. I am about to do this myself tomorrow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    538
    Hi, sorry about this very crap drawing, so what i have done is the right way? I read the online tutorial by sunnie but the last part i dont really understand (sorry) as it doesn't mention any specific colors to the SCU.

    Any help will be fanastic
    Attached Images Attached Images
    03 D2a Manual Td5 Heavily Modified, Ashcroft lockers F&R, Ashcroft R380, Ashcroft Atb lt230, Ashcroft Rear axles, AS manual IC, AS exhuast manifold, AS Coolant bottle, 3inch exhaust, td5inside Hybrid, billies 7100s, 3inch lift, 4inch staino snorkel

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    3,183
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaaaiju View Post
    Hi, sorry about this very crap drawing, so what i have done is the right way? I read the online tutorial by sunnie but the last part i dont really understand (sorry) as it doesn't mention any specific colors to the SCU.

    ....
    I can't say for sure, but I'm thinking No!

    As I read this tute, he's saying that there are 3 wires on the SCU. Is that right?

    If not, didn't it come with a install diagram/instructions?


    On your drawing, you have brown wire connected to the cut pink/green wire out of the SLABS.
    PeterM says to connect the white wire from the SCU to the cut Pink/Green wire coming from the SLABS.

    The other end of the SLABS cut wire(going to the speedo) requires the green wire from the SCU.

    This is according to PeterM's tute.

    I've told my brother to get one of these for many years now .. stupidly(but not entirely wastedly) he got a speedo corrector from Jaycar.
    Stupidly! .. we can confirm that it doesn't work. Not wasted effort, we did confirm that it doesn't work .. so no one else has to waste their $s to confirm this now.

    Anyhow, we did connect it up and even tho I said it doesn't work .. not entirely true. It partially worked, just not very well.

    But, for the C-6100 you need to connect it's wires thus:

    Red = ignition
    Black = ground
    Brown = nothing!!
    White = cut pick/green wire still in the SLABS plug(ie. to SLABS) Hopefully you used connectors on the wire ends.
    Blue(or Green) = to other end of cut wire (leading away from SLABS/plug, which goes to speedo)

    note on the blue/green anomaly. PeterM says in his tute that there is a green wire, seems you have a blue wire on your C-6100. What I've found that on the C-6100 there have been both colours .. both = ouput signal to the speedo.

    What we did on bro's is to hook up onto cut wires a male/female spade connectors. red or blue types both work equally well(for the cable size). This way you can remove SCU at any time, and reconnect spade connectors to return to original setup.

    Hope the wiring explanation helps for 'ya.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    538
    Yeah it did thanks heaps Iet you know how it goes

    And what's the ratio for on the sheet? Just do 1km on the odometer and GPS and then find the percentage of the inaccuracies and find that on the sheet and make it 10010101110 or what ever it is
    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I can't say for sure, but I'm thinking No!

    As I read this tute, he's saying that there are 3 wires on the SCU. Is that right?

    If not, didn't it come with a install diagram/instructions?


    On your drawing, you have brown wire connected to the cut pink/green wire out of the SLABS.
    PeterM says to connect the white wire from the SCU to the cut Pink/Green wire coming from the SLABS.

    The other end of the SLABS cut wire(going to the speedo) requires the green wire from the SCU.

    This is according to PeterM's tute.

    I've told my brother to get one of these for many years now .. stupidly(but not entirely wastedly) he got a speedo corrector from Jaycar.
    Stupidly! .. we can confirm that it doesn't work. Not wasted effort, we did confirm that it doesn't work .. so no one else has to waste their $s to confirm this now.

    Anyhow, we did connect it up and even tho I said it doesn't work .. not entirely true. It partially worked, just not very well.

    But, for the C-6100 you need to connect it's wires thus:

    Red = ignition
    Black = ground
    Brown = nothing!!
    White = cut pick/green wire still in the SLABS plug(ie. to SLABS) Hopefully you used connectors on the wire ends.
    Blue(or Green) = to other end of cut wire (leading away from SLABS/plug, which goes to speedo)

    note on the blue/green anomaly. PeterM says in his tute that there is a green wire, seems you have a blue wire on your C-6100. What I've found that on the C-6100 there have been both colours .. both = ouput signal to the speedo.

    What we did on bro's is to hook up onto cut wires a male/female spade connectors. red or blue types both work equally well(for the cable size). This way you can remove SCU at any time, and reconnect spade connectors to return to original setup.

    Hope the wiring explanation helps for 'ya.
    03 D2a Manual Td5 Heavily Modified, Ashcroft lockers F&R, Ashcroft R380, Ashcroft Atb lt230, Ashcroft Rear axles, AS manual IC, AS exhuast manifold, AS Coolant bottle, 3inch exhaust, td5inside Hybrid, billies 7100s, 3inch lift, 4inch staino snorkel

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    3,183
    Sorry can't help at all with the ratio end of info.

    The Jaycar unit didn't have that system, it used a small internal screw thing that you clicked up to a point, and measured.
    If not enough, you opened the case and flicked some dip switches and did test again.

    I'm emailing bro again to get him to get one for us to do it on his again .. this time properly.

    What kind of speed error are you seeing?

    eg. are you getting 90K/h indicated on speedo at 100K/h

    I've found the ratio sheet, so I'm guessing:

    if you get 90k/h on speedo at 100 k/h .. then we say you're 10% out.

    According to ratio sheet, you need to up the output by 10%
    C-6100 offer a 9.6% or 11.1% ratio change.

    I would try 11.1% myself .. but you may want something else.

    So I would try 00010010 on the dip switches(which would give me 10% more on the output side).

    But if you wanted to use the 9.60% ratio instead, then you would use 10010010 on the switch.
    IIRC, you have 285's on your rims? So your ratio change would be higher I guess.

    Reminder, I don't have experience with this system, but this is how I read the ratio sheet.

    And I prefer a small bit of headroom on the speedo .. sometimes you forget. So 1k/h over is more helpful. And in the end 1 k/h difference is totally undetectable anyhow.
    But if you used the 9.60% ratio, it could show 99 at a road speed of 100, so whilst your sitting on the usual 'dollar-three', you could be at a real ... point losing/wallet lightening ... road speed of a dollar-four!

    You have a manual, but if anyone with an auto can advise if the ratio correction helped in taming the auto on changes(primarily 2-3) and torque converter lockup at 80.
    Or are those trans parameters coming directly out of the SLABS, so before the SCU.
    Cheers,
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300 Tdi Auto

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    South Gippsland
    Posts
    1,184
    Quote Originally Posted by Kaaaiju View Post
    Hi, sorry about this very crap drawing, so what i have done is the right way? I read the online tutorial by sunnie but the last part i dont really understand (sorry) as it doesn't mention any specific colors to the SCU.

    Any help will be fanastic
    Iíll post my drawings - give me an hour or so Fitting C6100-4 Radio Interface UnitFitting C6100-4 Radio Interface Unit
    1999 build D2 TD5 AT, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans .....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    South Gippsland
    Posts
    1,184

    Fitting C6100-4 Radio Interface Unit

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaaaiju View Post
    Hi, sorry about this very crap drawing, so what i have done is the right way? I read the online tutorial by sunnie but the last part i dont really understand (sorry) as it doesn't mention any specific colors to the SCU.

    Any help will be fanastic
    I followed Slunnie's tutorial and those from Hunter DI and here's how I did it. If you don't have ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) you wont need the green "jumper" wire. FYI Header 0290 in the schematic routes the RSS ie Road speed Signal to other functions that use it like the instrument pack, cruise control and ACE..... you got it rightFitting C6100-4 Radio Interface Unit
    Screen Shot 2021-04-08 at 7.10.42 pm.jpg
    1999 build D2 TD5 AT, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans .....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    12,499
    Quote Originally Posted by onebob View Post
    I followed Slunnie's tutorial and those from Hunter DI and here's how I did it. If you don't have ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) you wont need the green "jumper" wire. FYI Header 0290 in the schematic routes the RSS ie Road speed Signal to other functions that use it like the instrument pack, cruise control and ACE.....
    Screen Shot 2021-04-08 at 7.10.42 pm.jpg
    Onebob, why do you give the ACE an uncorrected signal?
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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