the oil pressure sender is located at the back of the oil cooler behind the turbo/engine pipe
as for the start and power issue have you ever replaced the fuel pump
I have just finished a head gasket change on the TD5.
Before fitting the turbo heat shield I de-greased behind the turbo and the top of the auto gear box. I then used my gurnie to blow away all the crap.
On the way to town I noticed the oil warning light starting to flash.
I pulled over and checked the oil level. All good . I also checked for oil leaks. Nil.
I was wondering if the gurni had affected the oil sensor wires.
My main question is, Where is the oil sensor and is it likley to just be water, (it was still giving the occasional flash on the way home (34 kms each way) mostly highway speed.A lot of the time the light goes out.
Next question is the trouble I am having getting the car to start some times.
Often it will start as normal but ever so often in starts then stops and I have to do the old five stomps on the loud peddle thing.
I also think it does not have quite the zing of the lights it used to have and probably not the power up a hill either. This does not bode well for pulling my Catalina.
the oil pressure sender is located at the back of the oil cooler behind the turbo/engine pipe
as for the start and power issue have you ever replaced the fuel pump
have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
1996 D1 300TDI GONE
08 ford ranger c/c
WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
No. I think the fuel pump is solid. It did pump a lot of air(was noisy) after the FPR was returned to the head and still makes a fair bit of noise at times when first turning on the ignition. I am having a great deal of trouble getting the thing bled.
I will have a good look at the oil sender in the morning .It is just where I stuck the pressure washer , may have some damage there.
Thank you for this info. I sort of remembered seeing it there but not being totally up on the workings of this piece of "Pommie equipment" I was not sure.
As an ex pom ( can't help where I was born) I marvel at some of it's weird engineering.Who in their right mind builds a water pump and slams an oil filter right up against it so you have to remove the filter to fix the pump...I'm sure you get my drift.
It is mind you, a GREAT drive.
Assuming the car was running OK before. , you have potentially changed the parameters on 4 area's
Cam timing , injector washers/orings , injector clearances and depending on how you removed/ replaced fpr, potential for getting fuel hoses the wrong way round
Would hazard a guess at injector copper washers and/or cam timing
Water or earthing issue re: oil light
Injectors have new washers.
I was concerned the three bolts on the timing chain were showing a slight overlap of the washers . ( there were slight marks where the washers were not in exactly the same place that they had been before the pull down) They were about three sixteenth of an inch different
The car went really well before the head job.
The fuel pipes are correct.
My suggestion is undo the oil switch plug and have a good look at the wire inside the conduit.
It is a common issue that the conduit gets brittle and the wire rubs through the insulation.
It then earths and brings the light on.
Also check the wire isn't pinched as the heads been off.
The black wire in there does nothing and goes nowhere too.
For the running recheck you cam timing.
They aren't the easiest to get right.
In the cold light of morning , I have just remembered wiretying a conduit up to the steel pipe behind the head. I did not see where it went but thought it might rub if left laying on the bell housing.
I would lay money that is what the problem is.
Thanks guys.
I will let you all know the result soon.
Regards Nick.
O.K. All is good.
snipped off the cable tie and no more oil light flashing.
Mind you ,I still have a lot of trouble starting it
Don't seem to be able to clear the fuel line of air.
I'm still thinking copper injector washers, you have to make sure when doing them that the seating surfaces are perfect. Even then , I anneal the washers , some on here use TDI washers but personally don't have experience using them, looks like you will be on the spanners again, but at least you can do cam timing as well.
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