Thread: Transfer box/case removal (how to)

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I recently had mine done by a specialist, and it leaked worse than yours at 165Kk.

It cost $750 , without fixing the case and it is now not leaking at all, as they used an epoxy to seal the end of the shaft. IMHO it is worth getting done if you are old like me as AFAIK the case weighs 70Kg.

Regards Philip A

70?!?!?!? Woo! That much? I will ask for a help to lift it hihi

Originally Posted by Modelsp

Jack
go to the bottom of the page here and "search" for the T/F case removal
you should come up with some excellent Tutorials on how to go about it
you will need some specialist tools for a complete O/haul
even for R&R you need some to help make it easier particularly the guide bolts for R&R to prevent damage to shafts and seals.
One Really Catchy little Gremlin is the bolt you show in the Foto as it is a Measured length that if it is too long it will touch the Idler gear in the T/F case." I found this out the hard way".1st out last in is my best suggestion and paint the bolt head a bright colour when removed to prevent mixing it up with the others.
good luck with your task.
cheers
Paul



but don't try rushing the job give yourself a good 2 days if you haven't done it beforehand.

I've tried to search with the tool but I have found any guide... Maybe I've got to book an appointment with a good optometrist

Originally Posted by Ardo92

70?!?!?!? Woo! That much? I will ask for a help to lift it hihi

Once you have the handbrake backing plate off it would be around
30 kg ( close to 70 pounds in the old money Philip A )

If you decide to take the t/c out and it hasn't been out before, you'll almost certainly need to check the copper cup washers on the sun wheels in the t/c. At 180k they'll be shot and should be replaced - better to do it now while the box is out. Check the wear on the sunwheels.

Originally Posted by Mundy

If you decide to take the t/c out and it hasn't been out before, you'll almost certainly need to check the copper cup washers on the sun wheels in the t/c. At 180k they'll be shot and should be replaced - better to do it now while the box is out. Check the wear on the sunwheels.

Sorry, but which one did you mean?

Originally Posted by discorevy

Once you have the handbrake backing plate off it would be around
30 kg ( close to 70 pounds in the old money Philip A )

ah ok that's better...

I bet you'll find it is the white fibro seal on the output shaft. Mine was leaking and I replaced all the seals and o-rings. No bearings or anything. I have no leak now. I also found a bolt that was too long in the incorrect spot that had been chewed out by a gear (like Modelsp said), fortunately the LT230 is a super strong box.

But having said that I need to pull mine apart again because I was naive and didn't replace the thrust washers and shims in the centre diff. I also didn't set the end float on the intermediate shaft, I just tightened it up.

It is not a difficult job to get it out, it just takes thinking and patience. My advice, follow the rework manual / repair manual when rebuilding / resealing the LT230. RAVE is a great place to begin.

My thread if you wanted to have a look.

LT230 bolt too long damage?

I bet you'll find it is the white fibro seal on the output shaft

No his photo clearly shows that it is coming out of the drain hole on the front bracket so it can only be an input seal or much more likely the Oring on the intermediate shaft which is under the bracket and you cannot directly see.

Mine was so bad , it dripped onto the handbrake cable, then into the drum and wet my handbrake shoes.
Regards Philip A