Thread: Td5 autobox remove and refit tips

Fit the torque converter to the gearbox first, not the flex plate.

Don't install it with the XYZ switch on, they're expensive and break easily when you smash them into the chassis.

As well as the above , take the opportunity to replace transfer input seal , front and rear output seals , use genuine or OEM
Are you getting a replacement torque converter ? .
If not it might be worth handing your old one over to a specialist to get checked out and maybe lower stall if your cars performance has been enhanced, double check stack height of converter before fitting.
Cheers

Yea, I planned to check/replace the two prop shaft seals, in my spares box for a while. Ordered an input shaft seal at the time, though i was thinking i should have grabbed an intermediate o ring too, hopefully can get locally if needed.
New torque converter hd one as part of order, along with pipes and cooler. I already flushed the cooler, so know about taking that out.
Good call on the xyz switch, i might have thought about leaving on for removal and fit before.

I haven't decided on whether to split the transfer off underneath or once off and the same for refit. I haven't actually split them before, I normally remove the whole lot for clutch changes.

I will be getting a crank shaft seal too, figured I may as well while it's accessible.

Any other stuff on the back of the engine? Is there a welsh plug or anything that would be a target of opportunity?

What about prefilling the torque converter? I have a d1 sump and p38 dipstick to go on so filling should be a bit less stressful.

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Hello,
When I did mine with all the jigging around I did mange to break the crank sensor. I used a trolley jack and took both out together. Also installed TC before reassembly to the correct measurement held in place with home made bracket.
Ian

Watch out for the 'Secret'(not in RAVE) bellhousing bolt. Just to the right (Dvrs) side of the Crank angle sensor.
Near invisible when on your back or from above.
Undo the Torque convertor bolts from the Access point at the front of the housing.
Be sure you have the right TC seal and not a HP 24 jigger.
Fight the urge to leave the exhaust off before the middle box. That turbo whistle is addictive. 3yrs on, now where is that exhaust pipe....

Good luck. Have fun.

Remove and refit auto and transfer as one. Transfer input seal prone to damage if boxes refitted separately.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/1...correctly.html

stack height is a common problem--

Ashcroft have on their website the exact measurement the torque converter needs to be from the bellhousing mating surface. Make sure you look this up and measure it before refit. The dog clutch for the pump and the 2 sets of spines need to be lined up before refitting to the engine. Even though it is more weight it is easier to balance and transfer case and auto front under the chassis mounts so leave them together to remove. You will need another jack to lift the side of the car to drag them out. Don't forget to disconnect all wires including the crank angle sensor, it is only a short wire.