Thread: Td5 autobox remove and refit tips

Originally Posted by Slunnie

DHL may be worth a Google search. I'm sure I've heard of them sending random additional bills to other people also.

Yea, don't get me started
Unfortunately they have you over a barrel, no pay, no box.

Not box related but while it's out think about extending the heater box drain tubes.
It'll fix the air conditioner condensation drip on the XYZ switch issue.

Hi Steve did you get a stock auto from Ashcroft or their HP24 hybrid upgrade? Cheers Matt

Standard, I don't imagine doing enough to this truck to need anything exotic, so the hybrid didn't even make my thought process.

Took the interior apart last night, nothing out of the ordinary. but first time I've disconnected all the cables, so I'm hoping that resetting cable positions will be easy.

Took the rest apart today, so oil cooler and lines off, prop shafts, cross member, drained. Was making good progress till we got to the starter motor, top nut stopped us in our tracks. Found a post on here about it and I need to get a 3/8 set and wobble bar to sort it.

I guess that is all that will happen till next weekend now.

Consider taking the inlet manifold off. I havn't done it that way but believe it only takes an hour I spent 4 or 5 hours on that stupid bolt. Good to clean out the manifold anyway. Do the fuel reg while the manifold is off. Just a thought

Mate popped back over on Monday evening with a 15mm 1/4" socket and extension, fitted right in and, after he wapped his knuckles, it came loose.

I actually cleaned the manifold and replaced the reg about 6 months ago, it was part of the reason I didn't want to be bothered to do it yet.

I spent a few hours looking at videos of fitting torque converters and feel a bit more confident that there will be a gap when first fitted up, but that the TQ gets pulled forward.

I read a post by BKnight, about a dowel and strimmer line, but I just can't picture it, I'm guessing the idea is to keep the TQ pushed hard back into the box when you are fitting it up and then once the bellhousing bolts are in you release line and bolt the TQ up.

Thought I'd capture any knowledge gained in the last couple of weeks as I did a few jobs.

We got the old box out, the D2 can be better lifted by using the 4 threaded holes on top and making a lifting plate with central eye. I'll post some pictures and maybe even dimensions at some point. My normal way on the LT77 and R380 is a strap around the front near bellhousing and a lifting eye on the PTO over. The PTO cover fouls too much on the D2 auto, I think it's longer than these other 2 boxes.

I'm thinking of drilling out the starter stud and replace with nut and bolt.

I did both engine mounts since the engine is attached to very little, it's now sitting about an inch higher.

The transfer case separation was uneventful, the change of intermediate o ring same, I did end up taking the diff cover, PTO and sump off. I think the front over may have have been leaking, the others was because the box was pretty grotty, so I thought I'd clean it up as best, and I degreased and repacked the output gear bearings. The prop shaft seals aren't leaking, so I decided, since they are pretty accessible on the car, to leave them.

I changed the rear crank seal, I had hoped to just do this and not touch the sump, but the gasket has 2 nipples that mean you really should take the sump off, fit crank seal, refit sump and gasket. In a pinch, I reckon you could cut off the nipples and substitute with a reasonable amount of RTV, but there isn't a lot of point.

Sump off - so this meant I redid the oil pump bolt, didn't seem super tight, so cleaned up, red loctite and refit to 25nm. Crank seal fitted, blue thread lock this time, the bolts are only 9nm, which is pretty loose, so I reckon it definitely needs a bit of thread lock.

I've decided not to do the core plug, it's the best access with the engine in the car, but it's still rubbish. I'd prefer to leave it, find it leaks in a year and pull the engine out. Chances are high that I'd replace and find it leaking in 6 months because of the poor fitting space.

So, the car is now heading in the other direction, fit the flex plate, then box back in this weekend, tfr box in and start on all the other stuff.

Lot of random extra expenses, the 2 oil filters and oil is probably $100. The 15 litres of fully synthetic penrite is about $170.
I saved my rad fluid, but the water container I put it in, we'd holed to let air in while we used it for the water, didn't realise, so lost lots of that..

Made the decision that I will fit the gearbox without transfer, I have locating tools ( like the special LR tools, turned down by a friend) and I'm more concerned about making sure the torque converter is right, the trfr box is straight forward and known to me.

I'm just gagging to get it done and see how it drives...