How bad is it - lost ATF

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I catch anyone following this advise and I will personally come along and drain about 1.5l of your blood and then make you do a pack march uphill on a hot day while yelling and screaming at you about how you're such a mechanically unsympathetic weak moron because you cant do it yourself.

This would be the single best method I could think of to write of an auto short of the use of explosives, fire, oxy torches, crushers, grinders and FBH's

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No argument from me on this one.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I catch anyone following this advise and I will personally come along and drain about 1.5l of your blood and then make you do a pack march uphill on a hot day while yelling and screaming at you about how you're such a mechanically unsympathetic weak moron because you cant do it yourself.

This would be the single best method I could think of to write of an auto short of the use of explosives, fire, oxy torches, crushers, grinders and FBH's

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I read this more as a comment saying that an auto box will still run on limited oil, not that it was okay to do so. It means that just because you still have drive, it doesn't mean you aren't doing damage.

A friend of mine had a hose come off at the inter cooler. When I heard about it I went and had aluminium aero fittings put on. No more troubles. A word of warning USE two spanners if you have to undo the threads. The aluminium tube is very light!! :angel:

Tony :wheelchair:

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Originally Posted by Grumpy

A friend of mine had a hose come off at the inter cooler. When I heard about it I went and had aluminium aero fittings put on. No more troubles. A word of warning USE two spanners if you have to undo the threads. The aluminium tube is very light!! :angel:

Tony :wheelchair:

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Can we have a bit more info about this please?

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Originally Posted by Pinelli

I read this more as a comment saying that an auto box will still run on limited oil, not that it was okay to do so. It means that just because you still have drive, it doesn't mean you aren't doing damage.

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Thank god someone can read what I wrote instead of what they think they see.

At no point did I say it was ok. Nor that it wouldn't do damage. Was only outlining what I know through expensive experience where there was NO option other than to continue with reduced oil levels. And from this, refilling with known quantities (from listed fill qty), gave data on what it will and won't do with how much.

Yet another response that, despite my continued interest, furthers my ever decreasing willingness to proffer suggestion or advice lest the gods not like it. More than just the chosen few have been around these things for more than a couple of decades.

And as for doing any marching. I put my 10 in marching for better DI's than you'd ever aspire to be.

There's a reason I wasn't made an engineer. I can shoot.

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Originally Posted by roverv8

Just about everyone that has the auto out this happens to, including me.
when the auto is removed from the vehicle, the engine is often allowed to tilt back & rest on the firewall.
The metal trans oil cooler hose is bolted to a small brackets along the sump & at the front of the motor where it's clamped/joined to the rubber hose, so when the engine tilts back it pulls tight on the rubber section of hose, Mine lasted about 3 weeks after it came out of the auto shop & then blew off.
Not saying this is the only cause of this, but it certainly doesn't help.

Just adding, my auto was fine once oil was topped back up

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I had a lot of trouble putting new pipes onto a D2 trans cooler, after a great deal of effort, my mate had a look at the connector, then put his brain in gear and we put some silicone lube paste on the pipes and fittings, the pipes went on easily and smoothly and a very loud click was heard when they where seated and the clip had sprung. The reason they where hard to push was that there are several O rings in the connector and they all need to be lubed to enable a smooth fit .


Ian
Bittern Vic

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Originally Posted by d2dave

Can we have a bit more info about this please?

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For less than $200- you can get alloy weld on fittings for the cooler, steel for the pipes and pushlok hose and fittings (pushon barbed hose ends with suitable hose) to replace the OEM hoses and adapt them to the OEM pipes that normally have the hoses swaged onto them (you do need to cut the OEM hose off). Screw on and off so no chance of not getting the cooler ends pushed on fully (they blow off) or the other end blowing off the pipe.

So I assume this is a case of removing the cooler and taking it to a hydraulics shop to have this done, yes?

As long as you have someone that can weld the ends on (pref tig) no, just make sure the cooler is well flushed before welding.