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Thread: Brought a td5 Disco

  1. #1
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    Brought a td5 Disco

    G'day guys, great forum love all the info and people willing to help!!
    I come from a family that have always been Land Rover owners. In my time I have owned a couple of series 2 a 2a and a 3. 72 Rangie (4.4 p76 v8), 85 Rangie, 93 3.9 Disco and a 97 300tdi Disco.
    A few weeks ago I had my first accident and crashed the 300tdi and after pondering wether or not to straighten it out to be put back on the road I came across a 2000 td5 Discovery with suspected blown auto. So I negotiated with the owner and brought it for 2500.
    The blown auto turned out to be the transfer case in neutral, easy fix! The previous owner brought the car when it was 2 years old and had only ever serviced it, changing oil at 5000 ks and workshop service every 10,000ks the car has 270,000 kms on it. Other than that It has had a new radiator recently and the wheel speed sensors where reset in 2007 after running off the road through a big ditch, no damage to car. The auto problem occurred when it blew a cooler hose, their mechanic replaced the hose and re filled with fluid but no drive after that (I guess who ever towed the car put the transfer case in neutral).
    I have had the car now for a couple of weeks and it must know I am a sympathetic Land Rover sufferer ( As a long time landy lover I think I can say that lol).
    It runs beautifully like a td5 should, it did this for the first week just enough time for me to start to like it. then it started up with a miss one cold morning only for a sec or so. Thought injector loom but soon discovered it was filling its sump with diesel at a very fast rate. So injector washers it was, turned out to be a worn out o ring on the injector more so than the washers. After that the fuel cooler started to leak so new o rings in that!!
    I have a couple of broken studs in the exhaust manifold so in a few weeks I am going to pull the head to replace the head gasket and get rid of the plastic dowels for metal ones also do the exhaust, renew the o rings in the fuel pressure reg and replace the injector loom.
    When it comes due for the next oil change I am going to drop the sump and check the oil pump drive.
    Also I have a bad vibration at 2200 rpm but pretty sure it has not only a collapsed drivers side engine mount but pretty sure it is busted in half as well so waiting on the replacement to turn up.
    I thought it was pretty amazing that a td5 has made it to 270,000 without any issues, it is still running its original injector loom!!!! I know no one will believe me but I can't find any oil in the connection at the engine let alone at the ecu.
    Any more suggestions as to any preventative maintenance, things to look for on a un molested td5 with 270,000 ks ( it still has a perfectly working egr!!!)


    Cheers Roger
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Hi dodgy , good score with the d2. although the mechanic needs a kick up the arse for not picking up the transfer neutral . makes me feel sorry for the previous owner though he should have picked it as well
    With your vibration at 2200 try pulling on your handbrake slowly and see if it disappears. If it does try adjusting your handbrake.
    While you have the head off it might be worth replacing valve stem seals and giving the valves a lap as well as cleaning out the crap from the intake manifold, egr bypass would help too.
    Cheers

  3. #3
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    G'day discovery,
    yeah I felt bad for the bloke too, we had a mishap loading it onto the car trailer due to a steep curved drive way and discovered the problem in front of him while figuring out how to get the car backwards up the driveway to reset the ramps on the trailer his reply was he had never had it in low range then mumbled that's probably all that's wrong with it, well the deals done. We had marked the passenger side door with the trailer mishap as well, I rang and told him about the diesel in the oil and the injector washers as it had defiantly happened after I brought the car so hopefully that makes him feel a little better.
    The handbrake doesn't seem to change the vibration, I jacked up the engine and it looks like the top half of the drivers side mount has separated from the rubber so plan was to replace that and take it from there.
    Thanks for the tips, will defiantly clean the inlet and might just send the head off to the machine shop. Was going to bypass my egr but a bloke I was chatting to about it said he had to reverse a bypass for a customer due to it being defected by transport so now thinking twice about it...

  4. #4
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    Make sure you get genuine mounts the aftermarket ones fail a lot quicker

    Sent from my SM-G900F using AULRO mobile app
    have a good one :D ken :wasntme:
    MY07 L320 RANGE ROVER SPORT MORE GOODNESS TO COME
    MY03 D2A TD5 EXTRA GOODIE ENHANCED :D now parting from life
    1996 D1 300TDI GONE
    08 ford ranger c/c
    WRECKING DISCOVERY 2
    PM ME FOR WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR

  5. #5
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    Put on your list of things to check.....
    Crankshaft pulley.

  6. #6
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    Hi, being from 2000, as first step it's enough to clean the EGR valve /inlet manifold, MAP/IAT sensor , disconnect the vacuum pipe from the EGR valve's top and clog it with a rivet to not affect vacuum ...that's the "non-invasive" EGR bypass... replace the crankcase breather(depression controll) valve as preventative maintainance as well, tgis one if it's old can affect driveability bad.
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  7. #7
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    TD5 - great vehicle

    Quote Originally Posted by Dodgyl View Post
    G'day discovery,
    yeah I felt bad for the bloke too, we had a mishap loading it onto the car trailer due to a steep curved drive way and discovered the problem in front of him while figuring out how to get the car backwards up the driveway to reset the ramps on the trailer his reply was he had never had it in low range then mumbled that's probably all that's wrong with it, well the deals done. We had marked the passenger side door with the trailer mishap as well, I rang and told him about the diesel in the oil and the injector washers as it had defiantly happened after I brought the car so hopefully that makes him feel a little better.
    The handbrake doesn't seem to change the vibration, I jacked up the engine and it looks like the top half of the drivers side mount has separated from the rubber so plan was to replace that and take it from there.
    Thanks for the tips, will defiantly clean the inlet and might just send the head off to the machine shop. Was going to bypass my egr but a bloke I was chatting to about it said he had to reverse a bypass for a customer due to it being defected by transport so now thinking twice about it...
    Hey Dodgyl,

    If you haven't already, consider junking the cat converter. It's just below the exhaust flex joint and a straight fit pipe is available on eBay. Removing it will clean up the performance of the engine and allow the turbo to spool up a bit quicker. I'm surprised your mate had an issue with the authorities. Most of them wouldn't know that the EGR had been removed and it is something that you should seriously consider as it is just so detrimental to the engine recirculating exhaust back through it.

    In my first TD5 Disco, I gutted the internals of the factory EGR and you couldn't tell the difference however, it's quite a job and a lot of aluminium grinding! I bought a bypass for my second TD5 and had it over the pits twice with interstate rego changes and it sailed through.

    You have a great opportunity to clean the engine up while the head is off and I would strongly recommend getting the intercooler and inlet manifold cleaned.
    Have a think about replacing the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) with a 4 bar Bosch item while you've got the head off - will be the best $60 odd you'll spend and the slightly higher pressure over the standard FPR will give you a mild performance boost. First sign of a duff FPR is a fuel leak running directly into your alternator which will kill it.

    It is a criminally insane job to replace the FPR with the head on (As many of you reading this will nod your head in agreement) so you'll thank me in the long run. You don't have to buy the complete unit (Approx $300) just the actual FPR as they can be removed out of the FPR housing.

    Absolutely, positively check the oil pump bolt. 2000-2002 were the problem years and even though you've got quite a few K's on the engine - it's good piece of mind.

    Have a very careful inspection of the auto trans cooler lines. The do crack in places and can rupture where the rubber hose is swaged onto the fitting. Mate of mine pumped nearly all of his ATF out onto the road before losing all drive thanks to a circular stress fracture right around the swage. It was also a Ba***tard of a job to get the hose out so while you have the engine mounts out it will make it a bit easier to get at them to check.

    Fully convert your cardan shaft to greaseable nipples on the uni's or lash out and buy one already built. If you are doing any towing or getting off road regularly - being able to grease the front drive shaft is imperative.

    Think about installing an EGT gauge - best thing for longevity and if you are towing, you'll be surprised how high the exhaust temps can get when you've got your boot into it up a long hill - 800+ Celsius is common....and frightening!


    Great find mate - enjoy it, maintain it and you'll get years of trouble free motoring.

  8. #8
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    ^^^^well said good advice, 2000 model won't have the cat converter, also like outback said genuine only engine mounts.
    Good time while the head is off to check your timing chain guides and if doing the oil pump bolt , easier to get harmonic and timing cover off and change them , they can wear and crumble around the bottom mainly, if harmonic is stuffed get a quality replacement
    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Egr blanking plate, no one will know

    Regards


    EGR Blanking Plate 205 Land Rover Discovery TD5 Series 2 | eBay

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the replies and info guys, I have a few extra things to grab now like chain guides, fuel reg and crank case breather, the cardinal joint was on my to do list but feels ok for the time being but will be done shortly after the head as I will be towing my 18 ft glass boat around a fair bit with the disco. I have checked my flex plate through the inspection hole and no sign of cracks, when I was doing the injectors I had a glance at the balancer as I had the fan hub off and it didn't have any signs of delamination around the rubber, anything more than a visual to the balancer? Also going to replace all the hoses on the cooling system and keep the old ones as spare.

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