Thread: Fitting Electric Brake Controller

should be the same,,
just ensure the (blue?) cable to the van is capable of carrying amps equal to about 10A per brake.
Does the van have storage batts?
might as well run a charging cable at the same time.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

should be the same,,
just ensure the (blue?) cable to the van is capable of carrying amps equal to about 10A per brake.
Does the van have storage batts?
might as well run a charging cable at the same time.

Have thought of that but never followed it up. How simple?
Thanks
Pete

we fit tow pro brake controllers all the time at work the wireing we use is no less than 6mm with 30 amp breakers as for the trigger wire if you cant pick it up from the peddle run a wire(4mm)from the break light to the break controller

The cable routing is just common sense, keep away from rocks and heat and moving parts.
choice of cable size is by formula, the blue cable to the brake light only needs to carry 12V(negligible current), the caravan battery charging cable should be something like this,

not necessarily marine(tinned) but double insulated figure 8. Anderson plugs on van and car.
How many cables are we up to now?
I run a Anderson plug on my battery charger,,
just in case--

I fitted an Prodigy controller for my elec over hyd braked Jetski trailer not long after buy the truck. Ran 2 suitable size wires from the + posts inside the eng fuse box that go to 2 relays and 2 30A auto CB's in the engine bay. (The relay has a key sense so if the vehicle is off no power through to trailer as it has breakaway backup battery charging system that would flatten vehicle battery)

From there went straight through the firewall with the loom that is there T-ed off the cold side of the brake lights for the sense to the controller, grabbed an earth for controller from frame that is right there when you open the understeering panel, just fit a bolt with ring terminal.

Then ran those 3 large wires (2 + feeds and the brake controller feed) with the factory loom up the A-pillar along roofline then down at the back. Then passed the wires through the same as loom to the RH tail light and had added a 4 wire being the Earth which was taken from the Earth point inside vehicle where tail light gets it from.

From there to the trailer plug.

Can get pics if you want.

Very new to the Disco so a lot of your explanation is over my head. Some pics would be great, thanks. Our caravan brakes are operated by magnets which drag on the drums and operate a lever which works the shoes. The cabling is very light weight IMHO, but it works. Until the wires get hardened and snap off the coils. I really don't want to upset the Discos temperamental electrics. Should be a simple job. Was on my Falcon and Rodeo. Why am I so wary of the Disco..............oh yes, reading forums!

I've attached some pictures which show the Earth Points that I picked up. The rest you'll have to piece together from the words in the other post.

As you probably are aware depending on your controller you may not be able to mount it how I have. The more expensive controllers allow you to mount them on an angle as long as the centre line of the controller follows the centre line of the vehicle. Then the controller itself figures out what is level on start up and works from that. On cheaper controllers it would think you are braking heavily with the way I have it mounted.

I have the separate trailer connector so I can hook up to any vehicle and get trailer lights without brakes as not all my cars are wired for the brakes.

And don't be scared I wouldn't call the disco electrics temperamental. Your only connecting to the cold side of the brake circuit and then picking up power from battery etc.

Thanks for your help Wenier. I'll be having a go. I wonder where I put the controller? I know it's in the shed somewhere.........I'd like to fit electric brakes to the boat trailer sometime but not so straightforward with saltwater immersion.
Cheers,
Pete