Brad
Could be the injector pins. With a pair of pointy nose pliers give the pins in No 4 injector a gentle twist to make sure there is good connection.
Regards
Harry
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Brad
Could be the injector pins. With a pair of pointy nose pliers give the pins in No 4 injector a gentle twist to make sure there is good connection.
Regards
Harry
Update...what should have been an easy fix has turned sour really sour.
For the last 2 days I have been wrestling with trying to get the injector that I got as a spare to work.
The original injector coil was fine but as I said above no clicking . I confirmed this when I removed it and tried to fire it with a small 12 v battery it was dead, whereas the other injectors all clicked when I did the same to them,including the second hand one I was given.
The problem I had after following urban panzers excellent write up was that I could not get the injector to seal even after replacing the copper washer and o ring. When purging it was filling up the combustion chamber. I found this out the hard way when trying to start all I got was a thump. I Knew what it was, and I tried many times to reseat the injector but it would not seal. In the end I refitted the old injector and purged and I had no leak. What I ended up doing was to use the harmonic balancer bolt with a breaker bar to turn over the motor by hand and watch the fuel cooler hose that was disconnected to see if any deisel came back out, and it did with the replacement injector but did not happen with my old injector. Looking at the replacement injector I found I could turn the bottom of the housing it was loose, why I have no idea. They came out of a working head some months back and were put aside for future use. I rang discovery autos and advised Damian who had never heard of this and said that he had another injector that I could have. I fitted a new o ring and washer to this one and it sealed and was all good. I reset the injector screw adjustment and reassembled the rockers and plugs and entered the new injector code then I purged and I started the engine and it burst into life........but now I have a knocking sound coming from the top of the engine only when it warms up and only at idle. I am worried I have bent a rod on number 4 piston even though I never had it running with the fuel in the cylinder, only thumped when I tried to start it.
Does anyone know if this is enough to bend a rod?
Is there any way of telling without dismantling the engine?
The knock wasn't there before I had the injector problem.
It is not missing and seemed to have the same power.
Nano com cylinder balance is the same on number 4 as it is with the others, they all varie plus or minus 2 or 3
The knock is not audible just above idle only at idle.
Could the replacement injector be different in the way it's firing?
I have copped a face full of deisel while trying to get all the deisel out of the combustion chamber even just turning the Cranck over slowly with a breaker bar.
I have it all over the inner of the Bonet and drivers side of disco all down the chassis.
I have dropped bolts down thes side of the oil cooler that took ages to find.
My hands are scratched and bloodied ,my ribs hurt from leaning over the guard ,and I may have to take off the head and see what's going on and do it all over again.....give me a v8 any day.
Discovery autos have offered to repair my engine if there is a problem even though it's not their fault all they did was to give me a second hand injector that they had in stock (free)I don't blame them in any way, but am happy that they have offered if I need them.
It seems that get all the stupid odd problems lately that no one has before.
I googled the injector not clicking problem and really did not find any thing on it.
I removed the coil from the dud injector to see if it can be repaired but you can't really get into it.
I supplied the 12 volts to it again and gave it some taps to see if anything may be stuck and perhaps jolt it back to working but it's still the same. It does spark when I connect the leads so I know the coil is ok but inside mechanically it's jammed either open or closed I can't tell.
The injector that was leaking I removed the coil from that and fitted that to my original injector and that now clicks.
Will it work I don't know and may never know...
I will report back about my knocking if and when I know....:(:(:(:(:(
Brad
To check the piston height in the bore to the rod dwpth cbeck thriugh the glow plug hole and a cam timing wheel on the crank. The pot with the smallest.included angle for the gjven height is the one with a bent rod.
That's alot of spellink mistakes......:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Drink?? :rolleyes::rolleyes::)
Extended sleep.deprevation and a small.screen phone
Wow, that job did spiral a bit....
I would have thought a bent rod would be a little more pronounced than a knock at idle.
You would think that one cylinder would be low on compression, maybe a miss at idle, it would throw the balance way out, my way of thinking is it would be more noticeable in increasing rpm....
How loud is this knock, I would maybe check the valve clearances first, wouldn't be the first person that has had a noisy hydraulic lifter after having a motor apart.
Bit hard diagnosing via txt but I just thought a bent rod would have more pronounced symptoms.
Good luck with it mate....
Cheers Roger
Was going to suggest that testing the injectors with 12v probably wouldn't do them much good as I have seen a lot of car injectors stuffed due to hooking up to 12v when they usually run only 5v. But after searching around mr google it seems that td5 injectors see up to 80v so 12 wouldn't have been a problem.....
I'd try one of these(or similar) if i was you Wynns Hydraulic Valve Lifter Treatment 8V 16V 24V 12V | eBay ... cured such idle noise on mine few years ago, and even if it doesnt it won't hurt
Well I started it this morning from cold and it's got a small miss, so I think that's enough for me to bite the bullet and pull it down and see what's going on.
Trouble is I won't be able to do anything for several weeks .
It's got very low kilometres so is worth doing..am just a little peeved off.
Never mind life goes on........:),
Or what's the saying **** happens"...............
I've seen this on injectors that are being lazy or have had their bump clearance set wrong.
If the injector has been left out but full of diesel they can grow snot/wax up internally and will give odd running issues untill they clear.
the balance numbers should be off if the pot has a bent leg, but also check your valve heights and clearances before you pull the head, its not going to stop you from pulling the head to do the repair if they come up suss but the process required to get at and perform the work you have to o anyway to pull the head and you might get lucky and find out that its something like say a loose cam cover bolt or rocker shaft bolt that you didn't torque down properly but now that you're not working with a pre-assumed already diagnosed cause you're going in with a more open mind and might just pick up on tha bolt that undid a litte easier than you thought it might.