CDL Issues with Disengaging

**DR4GON** · 17th September 2015, 04:24 PM

I'm very confused right now, so let me lay everything out, and someone can assist: (all square brackets are to images, aulro wouldn't let me attach all of them. Think it was just playing up on my internet connection.)

Bought a '01 D2, VIN: SALLTGM931A722497
Doesn't have a CDL Shifter, so began the process of looking.
Was told that I can't "just fit a shifter" because I was missing the internals.
Got under my car, found the nub, and with a 10mm spanner, engaged the CDL. [Vehicle On/Engage], the red dash light came on, and [Vehicle Off/Engage/Vehicle On], all the warning lights come on. As expected.
Also went to the internet with my cars details, and was told that I could just fit a CDL Shifter and Linkage. Transfer Case: 41D947279G
Went back with the good news, "I'm not buying that central transmission off you, just give me the shifter".
After talking to the guy, and quoting my VIN and Case numbers, he comes back with this image: [Fax Image]
Apparently I have to replace the switch and the spigot housing with this: [Image of switch] and this [Image of TOP - BASE], and it would be "impossible" to just fit the HI/LOW/CDL Shift Stick and cable. example: [Stock image of CDL]
Now, being confused at the advice I've gotten, I decided to re-engage my CDL with a spanner and take it off road to confirm said advice "All you need is a HI/LOW/CDL Shifter Stick and cable", and now the dash lights won't turn off when I attempt to disengage it.
(Vehicle Off/Neutral/Engage/Vehicle On/Drive) - (Vehicle Off/Neutral/Disengage/Vehicle On/Drive) result in the vehicle "feeling" the same-ish (I think I'm psyching myself into feeling a difference, because I've driven a '92 Patrol with front and rear diff locks, and it doesn't feel as tight and stiff as all that.)
[Vehicle Off/Disconnect Switch/Vehicle On] is the only combination that both turns off the CDL icon and the warning lights, though this isn't a fix.

So what do I do now, because I don't know where to start looking for electrical faults or what, after spraying the current switch down with degreaser, cleaning it, and then letting it dry and squirting WD40 which hasn't caused the issue to be resolved. I assumed it was just shorting or something. Did people incorrectly inform me that my vehicle's transfer case has the internals to lock it? Have I done something wrong by not changing gears, or driving, or not going into Low? Shouldn't I be able to lock the CDL, basically, on the fly?

And last but not least, let's make sure I have this the right way around - [Locked] [Unlocked]

Does anyone want to help me figure this out? I'd rather not trash a component.

**strangy** · 17th September 2015, 05:20 PM

Hi, from your post you have CDL.
You require a shift mech only. No further requirements

Red warning light> you need to ensure the spigot has turned completely to the disengaged position .
The CDL mech internals engage the lock collar by a spring loaded shift fork.
This allows the CDL to be activated but will not engage until the lock collar is aligned with the drive splines. The spring does the actual engaging.
Conversely disengaging the CDL fully, requires the lock collar to not be under load (axle bound/ loaded).
It sometimes takes a straight bit of road and no load on the drive train to fully disengage.

**strangy** · 17th September 2015, 05:23 PM

Sorry a bit more.
If the the CDL switch is sticky ( quite possible) the warning light will stay even though CDL is disengaged.

If the truck skips/jerks/ is difficult to move when Parkin turning etc, the CDL is still engaged.
If it moves nice and easy without the above symptoms it is likely just the switch.

**DR4GON** · 17th September 2015, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by strangy

It sometimes takes a straight bit of road and no load on the drive train to fully disengage.

Okay, just jumped in the car and drove it to the end of the street slowly and it eventually turned off. (Yay) Thanks for the explanation as to what was going on.

Now I'm just down to the conflicting info about the parts I need to buy.

DiscoMick · 17th September 2015, 06:09 PM

Another trick is to back up several metres, which can unlock it.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

**Outback 1** · 17th September 2015, 06:40 PM

you only need the cable and shifter always make sure you engage/disengage in neutral , the lights will only go out once you are moving

**Jazzman** · 17th September 2015, 10:01 PM

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Another trick is to back up several metres, which can unlock it.

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by Outback 1

you only need the cable and shifter always make sure you engage/disengage in neutral , the lights will only go out once you are moving

This is how I do it and it works for me. My light doesn't currently work but i know the CDL does. Need to be sure it is unlocked before driving home from the tracks, hence why I do both of these.

**Dodgyl** · 18th September 2015, 08:46 AM

I know they can be a bit painful to get to disengage at times but one thing that makes them even worse is miss matched tyres, my 93 disco when I brought it had different brand tyres with different wear between the front and back made it extra hard to get to disengage.

**Disco Driver** · 18th September 2015, 09:30 AM

Hi DR4GON,

I will also add that if you happen buy a second hand lever kit, to ensure you get the two-bolt cable mounting bracket that bolts on top of spigot housing and the little lever that mounts onto the spigot.

Good luck!

**BigJon** · 18th September 2015, 09:39 AM

Originally Posted by Outback 1

always make sure you engage/disengage in neutral ,

Absolutely no need to do that whatsoever. If the front and rear propshaft speeds are equal you can engage / disengage at any speed at all.

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