engine mount replacment

Ok People,
Second engine mount , passengers side done. Trying to get the mount out between the engine and the chassis rail no chance, spent a while messing around with that. All ready to start looking at removing the centrifuge drain pipe. Pushed the mount up and out of the way and it fell onto the top of the chassis rail between the engine and the exhaust. From there a doddle. Didn't have an assistant so I set the ratchet head between the ABS and the bodywork, tightened the nut up from underneath.

I'm not sure why Land Rover put the nut on top, I was always taught to have the nut on the bottom. Should the nut vibrate loose and possibly fall off you have half a chance the bolt will stay in place and just rattle.

If the nut is on top and the nut works loose the bolt will definitely fall out and be lost, good chance you'll lose the nut as well. Me I always try and work with gravity and have the bolts facing down. In the instructions when the nut has been removed it is mentioned to replace the bolt facing down to hold the mount in place, isn't this trying to tell us something??

Cheers Marty

Nomad it is all on this forum how to do it and the socket sizes you will need.
Go to the bottom of the page and in the box bottom left type in replacing engine mounts.
Expert comments abound there.
I loosened off all mounting bolts just leaving a couple of turns on the bolts.
ALSO undo the two 8 mm. bolts on the metal pipe that runs athwart the bottom of the radiator.
Start with the drivers side and I jacked mine on the rover jack with a block of wood between it and the sump another block under the jack to get the height right.
Do the drivers side first and that old mount comes out the bottom.
The near side comes out the top.
The only thing you have to do is unbolt the oil cooler
The lads here surmise that the bolts are upside down because that was the easiest way to place them in the engine when they were building the thing.
Regards, Nick.

Unbolt the oil cooler :eek:
Never had to do that for an engine mount, worane.

Hi Nick,
I read several posts and different instructions, even checked out a youtube video, all seem to do things that little bit different. This is just my experience, nothing more. I did find removing the oil feed pipe to the turbo gave better access and the air inlet to the turbo came off the MAF sensor connection. I checked the oil cooler for the amount I lifted it I didn't need to let it go. Been for a drive, feels completely different, sooooooooo much better, amazing how bad it got without becoming that noticeable. Glad I went with the LR genuine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Unbolt the oil cooler :eek:
Never had to do that for an engine mount, worane.

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Possibly meant the fuel cooler?

Yes, sorry, I meant fuel cooler. Silly me!
Nick

Replaced both mine today, nowhere as hard as it seems.

I unbolted and removed both mounts at the same time, using an engine crane to lift the engine.

Fuel cooler was unbolted, air box to turbo inlet pipe removed, turbo outlet pipe removed. Released water pump hose bracket from chassis mount.

Removed passenger side mount out through the gap left by removing the turbo pipes, new mount inserted in the same way. Drivers mount fell out through the gap between the chassis and sump.

Both mounts need to be forced a bit when refitting as there were both taller than the old mounts.

Took me 2 to 3 hours, and that was with a mate popping over so I got a bit slowed down.

I can only seem to post one photo at a time from the iPad?

Photo in my above post shows my old mounts had both bottomed out.

The engine crane lifting the engine.

The old and the new.

Passenger mount removed through this gap.