When my D4's gbox was overhauled the torque converter had to stay with the gearbox during refitting then bolted to the flex-plate once the gearbox was bolted to the engine.
Edit: Sorry, I interpreted your post as having removed the gearbox.
Hi again . I have my new TD5 ready to place back in my D2.
I was wondering if there any lurks or tricks with placing it back into the converter. ie. do I jack the bell housing up or lower it some .
I have bolted the engine mounts to the engine rather than bolt them to the chassis rails figuring that the engine should slide back better.
I am thinking of using a "podger" to line up the three bolts that hold the engine to the torque converter.
What are the torque ratings for these bolts. I can't find them in the revs I think that is about it.
Regards Nick.
When my D4's gbox was overhauled the torque converter had to stay with the gearbox during refitting then bolted to the flex-plate once the gearbox was bolted to the engine.
Edit: Sorry, I interpreted your post as having removed the gearbox.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
No I was advised by some of the learned ones on this forum NOT to remove the torque converter. It is right where it should be.
I just need to stick a motor on the front of it.
Ideally you're going to have the bell housing at a height where the motor can be pushed back in without there being much of an angle between the two. A bottle jack under the bell housing would be my suggestion to help line them up.
As for the torque converter, once the engine and bell housing are together you should be able to spin it via a finger or screw driver inserted through the little cover plate underneath or through the starter motor hole. Worry about the torque converter bolts once you have at least the two lowest bell housing bolts done up and the engine settled on the mounts. No idea how tight they are supposed to be, once you know the bolt thread diameter and tensile grade there are charts on the internet that tell you how tight they should be.
Thanks Bee utey. I have just been down to the garage again and noted that with a jack as I have it under the flat of the bell housing that the bell housing is laying crooked but the bottle jack is taking it's weight.I have just found on the revs where it says 37 ft. lbs. for the flex plate 13 mm bolts.
Thanks for the info on bolting up the bottom two bolts first.
I have to wait for the local L R man to open tomorrow as I have ordered a new sump gasket for when I check that blasted oil bolt. That failing is what this is all about. I had a really cracking motor in this car, till that bolt dropped out now I'm $2.600.00 down the tube.
So all you lazy sods like me who thought a previous owner would SURELY have fixed it by now ..... NO, GO CHECK IT.
I've just done a search on here "td5 converter depth" for you.
I found this thread at the top of the list, as it has some useful information so I didn't search any further.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...t-problem.html
From that thread was this very useful post/list link from Mario (aka Roverlord)...
Importance of fitting Torque convertor correctly.
Also linked is the Ashcroft site with the FAQ area for refitting the transmission...
Ashcroft Transmissions
Alien , I am replacing a 10P 1999 with a 2000 10P I have not touched the tc. can I not just put the newer one in?
I had mine out completely with the transfer case attached. I stood mine on end so the input shaft inside the bell housing was pointing to the sky. I then put the torque converter on and lined up the 'dog clutch' i think it's called.
Carefully ensured it stayed in the correct location.
Anyway, either way you do it, i found this information very useful. I used a straight edge across the face on the bell housing and a digital micrometer to measure it, but you could use a tape measure.
Ashcroft Transmissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks