Thread: TD5 auto. Want turn over

Check the small lucar connector on the solenoid cos it used to loosen and get full of muck, if it's tight give a tug to the starter with a hammer and if it starts after that instantly you'll have to replace the starter's brush pack, swap relays R2(starter) with R3(headlamp wash) to rule out the relay's contact.

I so need a hoist. I'm just not designed for working lying down.

All plugs look fine. Haven't got them apart yet.

Only 3 faults recorded in nanocom that I could find.
Ones for the pre tensioner under passenger seat. But that comes and goes depending on where the seat slide is. And want stop car anyway.
Next is a auto fault. Not sure if it's just there because cars not running or not. But Google wasn't very helpful.


The other is a crank angle sensor fault. But all my reading says car will still crank or turn over.

Those faults dont affect cranking, the starter solenoid's lucar connector is accessible from above within the engine bay

It is highly unlikely the starter brushes need to be replaced.
More likely the solenoid contacts which are around $20.
Best done with the starter removed.

What i said was that IF the starter reacts to a tug with the hammer then the brush box is the problem, for me it's highly unlikely to be the solenoid's contacts based on the following statement in the first post:

Originally Posted by turps

...I don't get any big clicks....

cos that's the symptom of solenoid contacts failure, the "big click" of the plunger hitting without making contact

IMO untill the feed to the solenoid is not ruled out that's the first suspect, or the relay, or the solenoid's coil(that's quite unlikely) cos no "big click" = no feed to the solenoid

Typically from the myriad of starter issues with the TD5s it is solenoid related. Checking connections is always an obvious and smart place to start. Going there to the most unlikely place isn't.
If the motor brushes are worn out the commutator will be equally tired and should be machined. It's better to do a new starter if it had seen so much work the brushes are gone.
The fact it starts well when it does work is a further example- bad brushes won't give a good start then no start.
It will be a bad start then none with the solenoid working in any case.

I had starter probs. a couple of years ago.
I pulled the starter and replaced the contacts and then pulled it again to put a new starter on that I bought on Ebay from Melbourne.1st cure did nothing to help.
OMHO I would just go for a new starter I think I paid about $219.00 or thereabouts.
It came with a three year warranty and has NEVER given a scrap of bother.
Pulling the starter is not a job you will want to do more than once.The last time was when fitting my new engine this week and I did it all from above with the inlet manifold and fuel cooler removed Made that top bolt really easy to get at.

Silly question time.....does it start in Neutral? It's just that it's not unknown for a coin to work it's way under the selector cover & stop the lever from going all the way into Park.