Warning.... Long Post
Having just brought a TD5 Discovery I am coping a lot of flak form others.
Seems you cant take a Discovery further than the corner store rather the corner of the state..........
However a lot of vehicles have had their problems over the decades
Nissan Patrol. ZD30 engine grenades itself. I had one of these and spent 15k replacing engine, turbo and pump etc. I could have rebuilt it cheaper, but replaced it with all new parts. I sold it a few months later, it still didn't feel right and living in outback Australia I lost faith in it.
80 Series Turbo Diesel. Main Bearings. Had one of these to. Luckily bearings had been prior to my purchase.
Had other Land cruisers with dodgie gearboxes etc.
Way back when had a Sigma with soft rings, so it used oil etc, had VT V8 Commodore which used oil because of piston slap.
and in the shed sits an OKA.......
My naive opinion of the TD5 Discovery is.
A Discovery TD5 can be a reliable vehicle providing all common problems known to fail are fixed. Being aware at certain KMs/time things will need replacing.
Parts appear to be cheaper than Nissan or Toyota providing you know where to buy them.
TD5`s seem capable of big KM`s. As long as you fix the things that will stop you on the way.
Pretty Much.
My opinion is they can be reliable.
My post is what i think they call Hypophora....
If you listen to all the jap crappers you would end up in the asylum
Honestly how long is a bit of string anything can be reliable with the correct service and history and operator.
I think we have all heard horror storys its if you want to believe them or not
All i have owned in 4wd`s is LR`S and several at that and personaly i would not own anything else.
The last couple and currant both being Td5`s and i love them never had any show stoppers .
So no probs here
For reliabiltity I consider repairability...
the TD5 is the last of the landrover engines that you can fix most issues on without specialist diagnostic gear or requiring unusually specialist gear if you have the know how
the MY03 series of the engine was the best of them. you're likely to have more issues with the bits that bolt onto the vehicle and the associated electrical issues that go with them than you are going to have with the engine itself.
the best way to deal with the flak is just weather it, wait for something of theirs to fail and then just quietly get on with letting your gear do its job. IF you have a failure to proceed while they blame the machine accept that the reason the vehicle got stuck was because the operator failed to ask and abide by the answers to the big 3 questions. Why that happened, lack of experience, bad interpretation of conditions, ego what ever other excuse there might be is completely irrelevant That it happened is the important part. This is the key general difference between the ethos behind most Landrover drivers and other marques, where others will swear and curse at the ability of the vehicle and spend a fortune making the vehicle do more and then complaining that the regulators make what they think they need to do difficult if not illegal to do a rover driver will sit back and ask "how could I have done that better?"
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
My conclusions are as follows.
The TD5 engine is very durable, but will not stand overheating, so a watchdog to warn of low coolant is a well worthwhile idea. The only other significant engine issue, as far as I can see is the problem of migration from the engine harness. You need to be aware of this and check for problems.
Other than that, the only major problem is issues with the ABS/traction control, which can have multiple causes, and be expensive to fix, but is not a show stopper (although it is a roadworthiness issue).
The rear U-joint on the back propshaft has to be regarded as a service item, and the double cardan on the front shaft needs to be checked regularly, not so much because it is likely to fail as that failure is likely to cause so much damage.
Apart from these issues, any failures on a D2 are just as likely to happen on the competitors.
Always bear in mind though that all D2s have been around for quite a while now, and may not have been treated very well!
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Hi NT guy,
Not much to add to what everybody else has mentioned. I have had a few Land Rovers and for that transition over from simple to oober complex the TD5 motor is a good compromise. Yes you have to change the head gasket, better done proactively than reactively, engine mountings are bets kept in good condition unless you have a family dentist. On top of that, good coolant, best lubricating oil you can afford, OEM filters where possible and regular servicing not 26k intervals.
Treat the vehicle as you would like to be treated yourself.
Cheers Marty.
dont forget the EMS/low coolant alarm and an EGT/boost gauge combo if you really want to get into stretching its life .
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Soo kind of ot but whats the go with the oka? Why is it shedbound??
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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