Rear wheel hub again!!!!!!!!

**Jason789** · 24th December 2015, 04:06 PM

Hello,

Looking for any good information that will help.

Bought my 99 D2 around 5 or so years ago. Totally happy with the vehicle, fixed all the bugs that can cause catastrophy's (oil pump, various bearings etc etc) But......

I am now on my third rear left wheel hub. The first time it leaked I had it professionally repaired.
The second and third time I have amassed enough tools and loctite to do the job myself correctly.....AND IT IS BLOODY WELL LEAKING AGAIN!!!!!!!
I have used the good brand for replacement each time, not the cheap Chinese copy, aswell as brake pads each time. This is not a cheap exercise!

One side issue that may be having some effect on all of this is that every time that I when I change the rear diff oil, it is cloudy(appears to be carrying moisture. Cloudy but not coagulated). I'm not sure of the reasons why.
I have made sure that the breather tube is clear/unblocked.

Could the diff be pressurizing and forcing oil past the seal???

Back to the main point.

What could be causing this recurring problem??

Why would the same hub/seal fail repeatedly??

Cheers,

Jason

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 24th December 2015, 04:50 PM

Do we know if these hubs are old RR stuff?
or were they actually redesigned for the D's ?

just thinking a wider knowledge base

**sierrafery** · 24th December 2015, 05:36 PM

Sorry to ask but you didnt mention anything about the o-ring cos that's the most important to be high quality and the root of leaks not the hub itself cos that o-ring is supposed to not let oil out from the axle, i mean nr 2 here Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile f?r LAND ROVER & MG ROVER , check in the axle where the o-ring seats to not be a wear

**Blknight.aus** · 24th December 2015, 07:11 PM

stub axle needs changing and resealing, if its your seal thats gone again then the seal face is most likely knackered and needs a speedie sleeve/rework OR you have a bent/cracked stub.

**rangieman** · 24th December 2015, 07:49 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

stub axle needs changing and resealing, if its your seal thats gone again then the seal face is most likely knackered and needs a speedie sleeve/rework OR you have a bent/cracked stub.

D2 is a sealed for life hub setup

**Outback 1** · 24th December 2015, 09:26 PM

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Sorry to ask but you didnt mention anything about the o-ring cos that's the most important to be high quality and the root of leaks not the hub itself cos that o-ring is supposed to not let oil out from the axle, i mean nr 2 here Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile f?r LAND ROVER & MG ROVER , check in the axle where the o-ring seats to not be a wear

When the hub leaks it's not the o ring it's the seal inside the hub and as rangieman said they are not repairable

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

**Jason789** · 24th December 2015, 09:53 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

stub axle needs changing and resealing, if its your seal thats gone again then the seal face is most likely knackered and needs a speedie sleeve/rework OR you have a bent/cracked stub.

Thankyou for the suggestions.
I was considering the speedie sleeve option. I will dismantle and inspect although it appeared to be fine on the last replacement.
All surfaces appeared to be shiny, scratch free and looking to be in good condition.
I will also consider getting the o-ring resized to a 'fatter' one, there is a place called Renseal that has been good help in the past.
I don't think that the vehicle was thrashed by me or the previous owners(2 previous) so badly to have a bent/cracked stub, although there appears to be no sign of accident either.

Would a bent or cracked stub not show up in a wheel alignment??(I ask out of ignorance).

Cheers,

Jason

**Blknight.aus** · 24th December 2015, 11:51 PM

Originally Posted by rangieman

D2 is a sealed for life hub setup

They said that about the auto in the D2 too.

anything that is sealed for life is out of life as soon as a seal, bearing, tolerance or the lube fails, whichever gives up first.

Sealed for life also ends as soon as I get my hands on it and demand to know "which idiot cost cutting profit maximising manager allowed an accountant to enforce a cost directed life expectancy on an object that an engineer would have made serviceable up to, including and beyond heat death of the universe?"

**loanrangie** · 25th December 2015, 06:41 AM

Its a sealed hub unit with bearing , if the bearing seal fails its nes hub time .
If the diff is leaking oil onto the brakes/ wheel then its thd oring that has failed or it was damaged on fitment.
If youf so called professional repair was a hub replacement then it must be a poor quality part.
Simple job to replace so i would not be paying some one to do it.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

**Jason789** · 25th December 2015, 08:58 AM

Originally Posted by loanrangie

If the diff is leaking oil onto the brakes/ wheel then its thd oring that has failed or it was damaged on fitment.
If youf so called professional repair was a hub replacement then it must be a poor quality part.
Simple job to replace so i would not be paying some one to do it.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

When originally repaired, I specified that a good quality part be used, not the cheap chinese copy.
When I have done the job, good quality parts(got em off Roverlord and specified and received the good quality part....can't remember the brand name though). I also took my time and made sure it was done properly.

I do all the work that I possibly can on my vehicle as I am mystified why there is a magical number quoted by the various Land Rover mechanics of $700 to $900 for any job on a D2

That is why I have asked for any pointers for other possible faults/causes, as I do make sure that I do these jobs correctly.

Cheers,

Jason

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