Thread: how tight should the LT230 grub screw be?

I recently scored a 300kk old transfer case missing a few things.

The intention is to use the CDL nose on my transfer, switching over in situ. I was even able to get a entire factory linkage set including the sticker!

I pulled everything out of the nose to clean lots of brass swarf out from the diff shims self destructing.

When putting it back together I have set up the lock switch , and have replaced the detent ball, spring and grub screw.

However if the detent grub screw is screwed right in , it is impossible to change from unlock to lock with a pair of locking grips. So I backed off the grubscrew until I could change from lock to unlock with multigrips on the flats.
So my question is whether this is correct or whether the lever has so much more mechanical advantage that the grub screw can be screwed right in.

I have read of people changing with a spanner so I assume my assessment is correct but I just want to be sure.

BTW , it was about a month between disassembly and reassembly and so I put the selector ring in back to front .ARRRRGH. I had to dismantle and reassemble the lot! I am getting pretty good at it now.
Regards Philip A

what do you mean you dont have loctite 290? Ive got some....

in place for the grub screw you can use.

loctite 243 242, if you're feeling masochistic when it comes to undoing it 263 or 262 you can use loctite 567 but that'll take about 24 hours to fully cure up.

if you head to supercheap

you want the blue threadlocker they sell.

if you head to repco its the same one but they also have a competing range that I cant remember the name of BUT as far as the basic thread locking compounds go you just knock the 1st number off of the loctite 3 digit code and then pick up the last two. its the same for their pipe sealant range and their flange sealers. loctite 567 and 566 become "product name" 67 and 66 if you cant remember the numbers and names remember the colours.

the red stuff is the no messing around with normal tools and no heat if its applied correctly you're going to swear at it and think it might have been welded (which means you want 6 point sockets and long breaker bars on stock hex bolts or you might round them)

the blue stuff is the stuff that still comes out with normal tools but if its used properly makes you think you've put it in cross threaded.