What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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cruise control at 100k whilst going up the big hill at the start.

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Cruise control will accelerate flat out to maintain speed so on hills EGTs will rise greatly.

In my case towing 900Kg on cruise with wife driving, mine hits the alarm at 720C just as it drops out of lock on a steep hill.

You have to watch EGTs like a hawk if you use cruise control on the highway, and it seems worst when you go down a hill , then immediately climb a steep hill as it takes a few seconds to work out that acceleration is needed then hits the gas flat out.

It is best to drive by the EGT gauge and drop a few KMHs on steep hills rather than go ballistic on EGTs.
A Serck intercooler helps greatly with EGTs and I fitted one after one trip from Sydney to Brisbane towing my camper..
Regards Philip A

Right I guess an EGT gauge sooner rather than later it is. Are any brands/styles better than others?

What other gauges do I 'actually need'? Assuming that everyone will say a temp gauge. Do I really need a boost gauge, trans temp, etc?

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

A Serck intercooler helps greatly with EGTs

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I installed a D2a intercooler a while ago. Is a further upgrade 'actually needed'?

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I installed a D2a intercooler a while ago. Is a further upgrade 'actually needed'?

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Depends how you define "Need"

I find it frustrating to drive on the EGT gauge all of the time rather than on a really steep hill.

Without the trailer at say 25C, I can now climb the steepest hill on the Sydney M1 (southbound on Mooney Mooney hill) at 110KMh in lock with 600C on the gauge . I can now drive most of the M1 on cruise with the exception of the steepest hills, which was not possible with my stock EU3 (D2A) intercooler.

I have a temp gauge and boost gauge , although once the boost level is set up, I hardly look at it.

Temp gauge is worthwhile IMHO as the stock temp gauge is useless, and for example towing up the NSW Alpine way , temp can approach and pass 100C and I alter my driving to keep under 100C. My temp gauge is an ebay cheapie $26 LED gauge with a dry temp sensor attached to a bolt of the wet gauge housing and insulated with a big lump of Blue Tac. It agrees with the Nanocom actual temp quite accurately.

Regards Philip A

Yesterday I installed a fuel cooler seal kit, replaced the rocker cover gasket, replaced front cam cover seal and sprayed degreaser over the rear of the engine and underneath.
Rear cam cover seal beat me.... will try again another day. I removed the rear noise/engine cover... that didn’t beat me!!!!
So far... no coolant leaks and no more oil leaks on the school run...

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Temp gauge is worthwhile IMHO as the stock temp gauge is useless,

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Oh boy, is it ever. The one time mine did anything other than sit rock solid in the middle, it went instantly into the red as the headgasket had gone. Where's the help in that? Without doubt the most pointless 'feature' on the car.

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Originally Posted by johntins

Oh boy, is it ever. The one time mine did anything other than sit rock solid in the middle, it went instantly into the red as the headgasket had gone. Where's the help in that? Without doubt the most pointless 'feature' on the car.

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My understanding is the gauge is configured to sit in the middle between 88 and 107 degC (nominal operating range of cooling system / coolant). And only after it hits 107 signal to blip up. Unfortunately 115 degC is probably too late....
Not sure if this could be remedied with some aftermarket electronical wizardry.
I just drive with Nanocom on instrument mode - RPM, Road Speed, Boost, Coolant temp and Alternator voltage right there.

Is there a way of checking the ACE pressure control valve, or should I just change it? I still have to change my ACE filter when I get time.

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Originally Posted by ScotchRocks

My understanding is the gauge is configured to sit in the middle between 88 and 107 degC (nominal operating range of cooling system / coolant). And only after it hits 107 signal to blip up. Unfortunately 115 degC is probably too late....

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Indeed. It was WAY too late.. However, to be fair, the car had done 240,000 on the plastic dowells, but seriously?

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Originally Posted by ScotchRocks

Not sure if this could be remedied with some aftermarket electronical wizardry.
I just drive with Nanocom on instrument mode - RPM, Road Speed, Boost, Coolant temp and Alternator voltage right there.

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When mine did it's thing, I hadn't heard of AULRO, or Nanocom, or all the other things we all have heard of. I thought I was buying a car.... Turns out, I was buying a lifestyle, like it or not.. Introduced me to this place though, so not a bad thing overall. Unless you don't like me, of course....

The carpet was sopping. Thanks to this forum I:
1 Had a good idea of the problem and
2 Had a good idea of how to fix it.

The A/C drain plug was blocked. I used a children Nurofen syringe to force the dirty water and dirt out the end. I then flushed a few more syringes to fully clean out the tube.

I put the hand brake clevis pin in by pushing a screw driver through the hole to hold up the hand brake cable.

Cheers and thanks

Julian