Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Most of those jobs are easy in-situ.

I wouldn’t be doing it.

The oil pump bolt and trans cooler pipes would be much easier with a hoist , but the rest can be done in situ. Except for the rear main seal of course.

regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan

So I am thinking of just pulling the engine out one morning.... do the change outs where needed and put it back together a day or so later.

I'd say do it but I'm also the same person who planned a weekend to remove it (Never done it before), fix a similar list of stuff and then in the next weekend was gonna happen. Only took me about 5 weeks to finish off everything and get it back in. It's a combination of yanking the engine being a right pain, needing to wait for parts (didn't realise some stuff was TTY and then found timing chain guide chunks) and you'll find yourself with a growing list of while I'm here jobs.

With rear main seal if yours is an auto the flex plate to crankshaft bolts are TTY and need replacing but most importantly make sure you line up the flex plate bolt holes with the holes in the flywheel. I threw a big enough tantrum when I cocked it up and I noticed before I bolted the engine back together. The harmonic balancer bolt is done up to some ludicrous torque value and is also nominally meant to be replaced, I spent the time to dick around and borrow a big torque wrench but I've had suggestions (even from mechanics) that FT with an decent impact is also fine sometimes with locktite.

I've thought about doing the same. Then I started thinking about just removing the whole body off the chassis.

I've got the room. Missis wont be happy though

Originally Posted by DiscoDiscoMan

Hi All, interested to hear how difficult it would be to remove the engine Td5 (16P) and do the following jobs or just persevere and do it with the engine in....
H balancer, radiator, upgrade trans cooler trans hosers, water pump, rear main seal, radiator hoses, decat pipe, oil pump bolt,

Noting it’s mainly preventative maintenance... it’s running well but has a leaky rear main (tolerable) and want to upgrade the trans cooler and check the hoses etc. for rub wear before a big trip next year...
So I am thinking of just pulling the engine out one morning.... do the change outs where needed and put it back together a day or so later.
Kind of like a mid life refresh at 180k
Will it make the job easier or just be too hard?
Discuss....

The old girl got a present.
I'm thinking the 380's syncho rings are going to cop a hammering.

I just put that in 2 weeks ago, on my reco Ashcroft box, and I don't know if it's the box or that slick shift but the gears are harder to get into , but the kit itself is good

Originally Posted by Discosux

The old girl got a present.
I'm thinking the 380's syncho rings are going to cop a hammering.

Originally Posted by admiralranga

I'd say do it but I'm also the same person who planned a weekend to remove it (Never done it before), fix a similar list of stuff and then in the next weekend was gonna happen. Only took me about 5 weeks to finish off everything and get it back in. It's a combination of yanking the engine being a right pain, needing to wait for parts (didn't realise some stuff was TTY and then found timing chain guide chunks) and you'll find yourself with a growing list of while I'm here jobs.

With rear main seal if yours is an auto the flex plate to crankshaft bolts are TTY and need replacing but most importantly make sure you line up the flex plate bolt holes with the holes in the flywheel. I threw a big enough tantrum when I cocked it up and I noticed before I bolted the engine back together. The harmonic balancer bolt is done up to some ludicrous torque value and is also nominally meant to be replaced, I spent the time to dick around and borrow a big torque wrench but I've had suggestions (even from mechanics) that FT with an decent impact is also fine sometimes with locktite.

Thanks to all for council. That flex plate issue is enough to scare me off...
So it stays in....and drips

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The oil pump bolt and trans cooler pipes would be much easier with a hoist , but the rest can be done in situ. Except for the rear main seal of course.

regards PhilipA

They’d be much easier if we were 20 years younger too