Same, loads of people say you have to have pressure in them at all times, but I also have mine normally with none.
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Same, loads of people say you have to have pressure in them at all times, but I also have mine normally with none.
It's actually in the instructions sheet that comes with them to have a minimum of 5PSI and Maximum of 30PSI.Quote:
Same, loads of people say you have to have pressure in them at all times, but I also have mine normally with none.
The conventional wisdom is that it is to prevent them being squeezed between 2 coils and pinched.
Regards PhilipA
I fixed one of those about 8 years ago, still running strong. From memory I cut about 30 to 50 mm of some brake line I had bought years ago. It was either brass or steel with a yellow coating. It was about 4+ mm thick so I drilled the broken nipple and radiator hole out to 5 mm and used jb quick weld to glue it to the broken nipple first and let it dry. I then coated the protruding bit of brake line with plenty of jb weld and pushed it into the radiator. I had the radiator out of the vehicle so it was easy but you could do it in situ as long as you hold it still while it sets (a couple of minutes ). Leave it for 24 hours to cure and it will be stronger than new.Quote:
Originally Posted by kasper_tfg
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharmy
Attachment 176635
Nothing too hard to make a more permanent fixture rather than replacing a radiator which if this was the basis of replacement, will happen every time you work on the engine! it is such a ridiculous fixture and orientation without doubt.
I also did an oil change , grease and inspect yesterday.
Found the only oil leak to be that bloody drain pipe from the centrifugal filter to the sump/block
The thing is the hardest to get to go on it's studs.
lacking a new gasket which I have ordered, I stuffed the lower part of it with gasket sealer after loosening it on the studs. I have not seen yet whether it worked. It happened when I replaced the sump gasket which wonder of wonders is not leaking elsewhere.
Anyone have a you beaut way of getting it to go easily on the studs? Remove the studs and replace? I think I tried that .
it's pretty mangled from bending it to get it on the studs.
I do not want to loosen the top as I don't think it will help and it is sure to start yet another leak.
Regards PhilipA
Next job is to replace the coolant after 5 years.
Well, nothing happened so to speak..... which is good. Long story short, sitting in 40° heat idling in the driveway for about 20 minutes as the daughter fell asleep in the back. Gave the cooling system a nice little workout. Haven't seen it this hot in 12 months of owning it. But i haven't tried s sitting and idling in heat for extended periods either. Didn't lose any coolant and nothing went pop!
I'll admit that when it hit 103° i got nervous and went for a lap around the block and the temps came plummeting back down almost straight away. Happy days!!! [emoji16]
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What he saidQuote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
I have a 450k engine and it goes black very quickly on new oil.
If anyone bothers to read up properly the centrifuge is a 3 -15 micron particle catcher, landrover put it in to increase service interval. No claims of improving engine life.
I don't want 10 percent of my flow going in circles through an empty spinning tin can. I want 100 percent pressurising my sloppy bearing clearance.
The spin on will be getting replaced with the smallest micron performance filter I can find when it gets its next service.
I like to question and learn, auto wiring and mechanics is one of my hobbies, only limited by my laziness to generate spending funds, I study first, do the practical, check the results, reverse process or keep in service based on real world findings.
Frequent servicing and staying on top of maintainance is key to engine/vehicle longevity.
Being a knuckle dragger works for a lot of back yarders (works for me, you don't always have to think beyond common sense) and even workshop mechanics, but actually doing some reading and COMPREHENDING what you are reading opens up a greater understanding if you want to mod stuff to suit you not the lowest common denominator.
I learn just as much from playing around and cocking up as I do from getting it right.
I have scoured the various LR forums as far back as I can find postings since I became one of the club and the amount of parroted misinformation and ignorant statements pedalled as facts (with referrals to other incorrect postings as backup) over the years is astounding. But in all fairness that applies to all car forums.
There are very competent people on this forum (no not me, real LR loving mechanics) that I think must just itch to correct some of the things said on threads but don't want to get into a bunfight with
others self belief. Just make sure you guys, that you do speak up if I go off on the wrong tangent even with a PM to nudge me back on track if you are too nice to publicly shame me.
Attachment 176640 Last night I 'butched' (lets say it for what it is) up the spare fuel block in preparation for the dead head fueling experiment coming to a Discovery near me some time (not necessarily too soon). I have cut out the divider between the inlet and outlet channels to make it a common chamber, and blocked the original outlet to the regulator with epoxy.
Attachment 176641 The regulator seat was partly cut away both for easier access to epoxy up the hole and also to have more access around the fuel temp sender and inlet fitting. The no longer used lower threaded outlet has being cut off down to the level of the inlet once again for finger/spanner clearance.
Attachment 176642 Another view.
Attachment 176644 This cheapy ebay adjustable regulator will be mounted underbonnet somewhere, fuel pump pressure in from the left, single line out to head from right, return line at bottom.
So basically the excess fuel is returned at the regulator without passing through the head at all (to eliminate heat pickup from head), and one line supplies the feed to the head. The common chamber in the modded fuel block, along with the way the rails are cast in the head (EU2) I believe (to be proven / disproven in practice) should still enable the bleeding of air out of the system when/if needed. Regardless, a lot of winding over with foot to floor should clear the air via the injectors anyway as it prompts the ecu to hold them open longer.
What I am trying to achieve here is getting the fuel temp down as low as possible, once again from reading fuel company papers on diesel fuel temps (2 different fuel companies literature), which suggest 45 celsius is a good temp for power and lower than that is beneficial but the gains are outweighed by the effort to cool the fuel. I think I have links in another post ages ago to those papers.
Hey, it’s your vehicle and you do whatever you want to it.
And claim to comprehend anything you like. [emoji4]
And a legend in my own mind too, thank you very much, as every person should be !Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
F I G J A M
Thanks for the advice, I have done the same now as well. Waiting for it to set but looking much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharmy
Attachment 176662
