What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

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Originally Posted by Tombie

We will have to agree to disagree on this [emoji41]

Bypass thermostat set ups provide a more consistent operating temp (which is set by the opening temp for said thermostat) for a given engine.

Online thermostats have a cycle of hot-cold-hot-cold as the crack open and close again during the coolant cycle. Dropping engine temps, closing, increasing engine temp and repeat.

Bypass systems trickle flow the block/head(s) providing more consistent temps inside the engine. This is both more economical and more efficient.

The heater core is used to maintain bypass flow as it prevents nucleate boiling by allowing some consistent flow (the heater core also assists cooling, it is a small radiator after all).

As Slunnie posted, a side benefit is quicker heater activation and quicker engine temp build.

When I built high performance vehicles, we would deliberately remove the block mounted thermostats and replace with inline bypass units to improve thermal efficiency and cooling.

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Mike if I could get the running temps I want using the 3 way I would be happy. I can't unfortunately. I do run 2 x pilot/sensing holes in my inline stat which works well in Qld temps. Cheers

Yeah. I'm not really convinced about some people's ideas of thermostat operation.
They are not a binary device. Open or closed. So don't give hot, cold, hot, cold operating temperature.
The spring rate changes as the temperature changes and the thermostat opens allowing coolant flow. Operating temperature. The coolant may cool somewhat, but not enough for thermostat to be closing and opening, as some believe. The action is quite slow. The orifice expands and contracts, slightly, as the spring rate changes as temperature fluctuates, allowing more flow or restricting flow. Yes, the thermostat may open then close, initially, but once up to operating temp it acts as a flow restriction rather than a open, close affair.
Most thermostats are designed with some amount of bypass. Either bleed holes or weap holes, in the thermostat itself, or plumbing that allows bypass. This prevents themal shock in cold climates.
Vehicles with electric water pumps use the pump to vary flow, to achieve operating temperature, rather than a mechanical restriction.

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Originally Posted by Bosco15

I chuckled to myself, a week or so ago, when topping up transfer case oil. The handbrake guys decided that right in front of the filler would be a great spot to run a fat, stiff cable.
I know designers of vehicles rarely consider serviceability, but this Disco is taking it to the next level.

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Plenty of silly things etc on a TD5 yeah, sure.

But tha tc fill plug is not actually that bad, just take and extension that has the rounded wobble head and it'll be a lot easier.
Some say, to remove the handbrake cable, but there really is no need for that.

Adding the oil to the tc is a lot easier if You get a pump to do it.
I had enough of the one time with 1 liter bottles, having stuffed them somewhere up there and squeezing and twisting them to have the oil go to into the tc. Now I have a 16 liter pump with diff oil.

Our newer (2004 4.6) disco went headless today...
https://i.imgur.com/Qw1v5Dl.jpg

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Originally Posted by Dervish.

Our newer (2004 4.6) disco went headless today...
https://i.imgur.com/Qw1v5Dl.jpg

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Arghhh...the view that so many D2 V8 owners get to see. Very pretty. Good luck with her. Cheers

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Originally Posted by Dervish.

Plenty of silly things etc on a TD5 yeah, sure.

But tha tc fill plug is not actually that bad, just take and extension that has the rounded wobble head and it'll be a lot easier.
Some say, to remove the handbrake cable, but there really is no need for that.

Adding the oil to the tc is a lot easier if You get a pump to do it.
I had enough of the one time with 1 liter bottles, having stuffed them somewhere up there and squeezing and twisting them to have the oil go to into the tc. Now I have a 16 liter pump with diff oil.

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I have the extensions, easy to get out, I find it hard to get back in to start it up. When it starts, it is easy to tighten, with the extensions.

The front springs arrived!! YAY!! both of them. Which is better than can be said for the shocks. Only one arrived. The air bag spacers have arrived, so they can go on. I can keep the ride lowered until the other shock turns up. I am still waiting on the spring compressor to arrive. Funny how some things arrive within a day or two, and others take a week or more.

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Originally Posted by Bosco15

Yeah. I'm not really convinced about some people's ideas of thermostat operation.
They are not a binary device. Open or closed. So don't give hot, cold, hot, cold operating temperature.
The spring rate changes as the temperature changes and the thermostat opens allowing coolant flow. Operating temperature. The coolant may cool somewhat, but not enough for thermostat to be closing and opening, as some believe. The action is quite slow. The orifice expands and contracts, slightly, as the spring rate changes as temperature fluctuates, allowing more flow or restricting flow. Yes, the thermostat may open then close, initially, but once up to operating temp it acts as a flow restriction rather than a open, close affair.
Most thermostats are designed with some amount of bypass. Either bleed holes or weap holes, in the thermostat itself, or plumbing that allows bypass. This prevents themal shock in cold climates.
Vehicles with electric water pumps use the pump to vary flow, to achieve operating temperature, rather than a mechanical restriction.

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I converted mine (Td5) to top hose thermostat , originally with a cludged 2 back to back magna housings then when well proven for a few months I bought the aeroflow 38mm inline thermostat housing and wrestled the hoses over it.

There is no temperature open close swings and it comes up just as quick as the 3 way. It's 82 degree thermostat with a small bleed hole.

Also did away with the fuel cooler which simplified the plumbing as once you 'update' to a replacement radiator that does not have the separate lower section dedicated to the cooler it just becomes a piece of kit sitting there doing a not very effective job due to using the same radiator outlet temp water as engine block gets.

If I had the original style radiator which still had the isolated lower section then different story, I would have kept the fuel cooler as it would then be doing its job as per factory design and giving a much better fuel cooling effect.

Just the drivers side, I used a 17mm open ended spanner to tighten it up, and put the lock nut on it. I have to get a 16mm spanner to tighten it a bit more. Oh and put the lower shock bot back, I had a longer hi tensile one as the original went walkies. I had to jack up the axle a bit to get the shock back in. I am guessing that this will limit how much the axle can drop. Now I need bigger tyres!

A shout out to thank JohnP38.
Called on the weekend and helped sort my Nanocom.
All working as it should now.
FYI John, no repeat of the speed sensor fault yet and it’s still a stiff ride…

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